R2R2R – Training plan and Gear

When Brice first ran Javelina 100 in 2022, our friend Deanne came to join the race crew for the week-end. She has just spent a few days in the Grand Canyon, hiking some of the trails. She had wanted to do the R2R2R crossing but hadn’t found anyone to do it with that year.

When she mentioned she wanted to go back the following year, the thought started creeping into my head that it would be a fun adventure to tag along.
And since Brice pretty much said, on the day after running his first 100miler, that he wanted to do it again, it seemed like things would align nicely to have a repeat Arizona trip in 2023 – but this time, instead of pacing him for a 30k loop on his race, I would plan for my own distance goal – a roughly 48 mile/77km crossing of the Grand Canyon.

At that point I had never ran more than 53ish km. I have found that 50k’s races are a relatively easy distance to train for, without adding too much additional volume to my regular running routine. In the past, i’ve managed to get into race shape by running a couple of times a week on the road, and going on big day hike/run adventures on the week-end. I’m not competitive in any way, and I found that this volume of running was enough for me to have a comfortable, enjoyable day covering that distance.

Training for 50 miles or more however requires a much bigger time commitment. It really becomes a lifestyle. And I was never interested in having that big of a focus on running just for the purpose of a racing event. But for a big adventure day, in such an iconic location, heck yeah I was willing to put in the time.

Easter week-end exploring Washington trails & Deception pass

I also figured that it would be in early-mid fall, which meant I had all summer to get in shape, and I would be going out for week-end adventures anyways, so it would likely be easier to fit in the training than if it was in the spring, right on the tail of ski season.

All in all, the timing was going to work out great, and I was excited to make this my 2023 goal.

Training Plan

I’ve never used a training plan before. For my 50k races, i’ve mainly made it up as i go, “train -by-feel” style. I’ve kept training logs for most of my previous races, so I can go back and match/adjust what i’ve done prior. But for this longer distance, I knew I would need more structure.
There are plenty of 50miler training plans out there, so i decided to follow a more generic plan.
I have a subscription to Trail Running magazine, and it also comes with a variety of plans.
I ended up with a bit of a mixed bag and my plan evolved throughout the 30-ish weeks that I trained.

Kicking off the summer with a group camp/run week-end

I started by loosely following a “base-building” plan from the magazine. I say loosely because i wasn’t super consistent with following day to day, but tried to get a few medium runs in while still prioritizing other life things (a fun camping week-end with friends, a couple more ski days, a race week-end for Brice…)

In the first 8 weeks of “training”, from end of March to end of June, I averaged 26km per week, maybe only 10-12 km more than what I would run off-season,

I had booked a 3-week trip to France in June, which meant that my running would continue to be worked around friend and family visits. I was able to fit in a decent amount of running, as well as a few 10k hikes with my mom (which definitely went on the log as time on feet!), averaging around 43km for weeks 9-12 of the plan.

After I got back to Vancouver, I started ramping up the mileage gradually.

I switched from the base plan to a 50mile training plan. My friend Melissa ran her first 50miler in late June, and she shared the plan that she’d used. Her plan was appealing in that it only had 4 days of running per week, which seemed easy enough to fit in. I made note of the long run distances on the week-end and tried to aim for that, while running 20-25km total on week days.

Week 13 to 23, my weekly distance went up from 50 to 70km, but still only averaging around 55km over that whole period.

Around week 23 though, I started to have doubts about the 4-day plan. The main reason was that the week-end distances were getting quite big, and i was concerned both about fitting the time in, but also having such big days in general. Brice, who was training for a 100miler, wasn’t running nearly as long on his long runs – he had more volume during the week and bigger second days. I started wondering whether more spread-out, back-to-back volume wouldn’t be a better option for me at this point.

I soon fell into a rabbit hole of training articles on the web and came across another 50miler training plan, by David Roche. It had a more standard 5-day week cycle, and the long runs increased more gradually. David Roche is a a pretty notorious coach, I’d listened to his and his wife/co-coach Megan’s podcast and i knew he coached a couple of local runners, so I felt like it was probably a good direction to take.

My approach to training so far was never about getting faster, but more about building strength and endurance. I always figured long days on feet and regular strength training should take care of that.
But i didn’t realize, until that rainy afternoon deep-dive into running theory, how speed was important, in the sense that the faster you can go, the more comfortable you would be while running slower – hence the longer you could run at a slower pace. CQFD (Duh)

“Speed matters most” is ultimately what Dave Roche was saying. And at that point, speed work-outs were looking less daunting to me than 45k+ runs on consecutive week-ends.

Panoroma Ridge with Brice and Deanne, August Long week-end

This time, I started following the plan religiously, from easy runs with strides to hill workouts to week-end long runs.
A 5-day family visit in Montreal forced me to shift long runs to be on a Friday and Monday, as week-end running just wasn’t going to be feasible, but aside from that, everything else was executed as planned. With 6 weeks to go, it felt good to finally have a more solid structure.

Training Fatigue
I’m not gonna lie, in September training fatigue started to creep in. July and August had been all about going on big summer adventures. But September became very training-centric. I woke up every day thinking of what my run needed to be, and went to bed each night preparing for the next day training session. Week-ends did get bigger of course. Even with spreading out the volume i still needed to get my weekly distance up into the 80km’s for a few weeks.

Capilano Mountain with Brice

Somehow I managed to keep the motivation going. Being a bit uncomfortable during the last few weeks of training meant that hopefully i would be more comfortable on the big day and could enjoy the experience that much more. At least that was the goal.

My last two big week-ends definitely helped me work on grit and perseverance. Brice and I were training for very different efforts. He did nearly all of his running on the road, while I needed to get at least 3000 meters of elevation per week. So we ended up running mostly separately, sometimes both by ourselves.

On my biggest back to back week end, i set off to do two BCMC loops – climb the BCMC trail on Grouse mountain, run down the first half of Mountain highway to a bike trail called Executioner, then take that trail down to the Baden Powell trail, which crosses the North Shore mountain from Deep Cove to Horseshoe bay, taking me back to the bottom of Grouse along the way. Then do it all again, for a total of 30km. The next day i ran on another of the the North Shore mountains, Mount Seymour, following bike trails out to Lynn valley and back, 26km total.

I have to say, i once again reflected on how fortunate I feel to live here, and have such an incredible playground to train on. The North Shore affords a wide variety of choices, whether technical, elevation or runable, and of course I could go to Squamish or Whistler for bigger training/adventure days in the Alpine.

I did hit my limit though, two weeks before the trip. That week I really struggled with morning runs, and back pain that had been coming on and off over the last few months. I ran 12k with my friend Clare on the Saturday, then added on to a final 21km day. I was supposed to run another 14-16 the next day, according to the plan, but decided not to. One ankle was feeling a bit sensitive, and i could feel my body just needing to rest. 10 days out from my “goal” run, i decided that it was tapering time, and by tapering, i mean I wasn’t going to run anymore until I landed in Arizona. There really is no point in pushing in those last couple of weeks so why risk an injury or not allow enough time to fully recover.

I’m glad I took the rest. By the time we arrived in Phoenix, my body felt strong and ready for the big day.

Gear

I did purchase a few bits of gear for this, wanting to make sure I had the right equipment on the day.

For this 18-hour day i purchased the Salomon Advanced Skin 15 liters. Dea had seen it at the Salomon tent at the Squamish 50k, and pointed it out to me, so when it became available on the website i immediately grabbed it. I’m very please with the pack and have used it not only for the Grand Canyon, but also through our recent New Zealand road trip in December, as a day pack for all the hikes and runs we went on.
When reading the reviews on the website, a few were a bit negative, and I have to say, they’re not completely wrong. Mainly, not all the pockets are easily accessible, and it takes a bit of fumbling to get to the stuff way at the bottom of the front pockets. But honestly, using this as a day pack, it’s not like I ever needed to get my fuel out quickly while running and trying to keep up with a pace.
The bag is mostly made of waterproof material, which is great for the rain, but also is not very breathable, so it does feel a bit “warmer” to wear on a hot day (there’s no mesh in the back like other packs have).

Other than that, it’s super comfortable, it fits like a vest and doesn’t shift around while running. It holds TONS – I was able to fit all the food I needed and more, a long sleeve shirt, a rain jacket, a puffy jacket, gloves, a change of socks, rain pants, a first aid kit, sunscreen, and even a water bladder 2/3 full, along with my flasks in the front.
You can’t attach a quiver to it with the usual fabric tabs on the shoulder (it wouldn’t work well when the bag is full anyways), but it has a whole array of straps that can be stretched multiple ways to attach your poles.

Speaking of poles, in the past i haven’t usually run with them, but for a long day with a lot of elevation, it seemed like it was a no-brainer. I went with a crowd favorite, the Black Diamond Carbon Z in 125cm. I trained with them for a few weeks ahead of the run, and found them really lightweight, so much so that I often carried them while running, instead of putting them in and out of the quiver. I basically never put them away during our R2R2R day.

I had been using the same watch since 2016, a Suunto Ambit 3 Vertical. It was fine for most runs, except it now only had about 7 hours of battery life in tracking mode. Not great for a run that was going to take us more than double that. I did a bit of research and eventually landed on the Coros Apex 2, which seemed to be the best value for battery life.
It has quite a few more features than my old watch and I definitely spent the first week with it tracking my sleep and my HRV on the daily, just cause it was fun.
It takes a bit of getting used to all the dials and various menus, but in the end it’s a great watch.

For shoes, I ran with the Salomon Sense Ride 5. I have been wearing Sense Rides for the last few years and I really like them. I had also purchased the Salomon Ultra Glide, as Dea had mentioned that she loved their cushioning and they would be great for a long day. I really wanted to love them as well, but they actually ended up being too wide in the toe box for me, and my foot just didn’t feel stable especially in the downhills (I have a long and narrow foot, so it can be tricky to find a shoe that isn’t too wide).
I loved the Salomon Sense Ride 3, they were pretty much perfect for me. The fit of the 4 was fine, but I found them to be much harder and my feet were sore after doing a couple of long-is days of training last year.

The Sense Ride 5 don’t have that problem, but with their now lower toe box, I had to go up half a size, and even then I can no longer fit my custom insoles into them – i tried on a long run up Whistler mountain in the summer, and my little toes were screaming at me by the time we got to the top. I had to remove the insoles altogether and was able to run down the mountain pain-free without any insoles. After that i figured I could probably just stick to the regular Salomon insoles and that’s what i did for R2R2R. I didn’t experience any rubbing or blister the entire day.

The Gang
The four of us have all met through running over the last few years. While we originally met at the Thursday Night Van Run Co group runs, Deanne is one of the lead at our Saturday trail Lab so that’s where we’ve hung out most frequently. Wiebke (“Wiebs”) and I have gone on a lot of trail runs, and mountain adventures together, and crewed each other at races.

Singing Pass and Russet Lake with Brice and Wiebs, Labor Day week-end

I knew Dasha from seeing her on trails and I remember her coming out to our friend Pargol’s Grouse grind challenge one year, and bringing a batch of home-made cookies, still warm from the oven (her partner owns Bad Dog Bakery in North Van). No doubt this made a lasting impression.
We crossed path on a trail one day this past spring and told each other “we should run together sometimes”, as people do, but don’t always follow through. But we actually did. I reached out to her for a run on the North Shore not too long after, and later we met up in Squamish for an impromptu climb of the Chief. I mentioned that I was doing R2R2R with Deanne in the fall. Right away Dasha said she would love to join, as Dea and her had actually talked about it the year prior. And as we got lost in the silliest way trying to get off Third peak and taking animal tracks back to the main trail, i thought to myself that it would in fact, be super fun if she joined the trip.

With that our group was formed and we started exchanging actively on Whats app, about gear, trip planning, training plans… I was able to plan various running days with each of them throughout the summer, and the stars even aligned for the four of us to have a big adventure day out to Mamquam lake in late September.

Run to Mamquam lake with the gang in late September, longest run before R2R2R !

Doing these types of adventure with the “right” people is so important. And by right I mean people that I felt comfortable with. I knew we all had similar fitness level, I knew we all got along great and that none of use would feel “held back” or pressured to go quicker, or be left behind.

And I wasn’t wrong. We had a great time together on our R2R2R adventure, and I really felt like i went into it fully prepared. I had done all the training, I had all the proper gear, and I was with three supportive kick-ass women. While I was nervous in the couple of weeks leading up to it, and even though I slept horribly the night before, as soon as we started descending into the canyon, all of the nerves vanished and I never once during the day did I thought that I couldn’t do it.

R2R2R was really such a memorable adventure for me, but i also feel grateful for all the memories created leading up to it – the big summer days with friends, training while traveling home, even the long solo runs in late summer, and the few days in Arizona before the Grand Canyon.

R2R2R – Crossing the Grand Canyon and Back


Grand Canyon National Park, AZ – October 25, 2023

3:50am – The alarm goes off. I feel like I haven’t slept at all. I tried to go to sleep at 10pm last night, but I’ve barely dozed off, coming in and out of consciousness throughout the night. My watch says I’ve gotten 30 min of deep sleep over 4 hours. I got this new watch specifically for this trip. My old watch had a battery life of about 7 hours, which obviously wasn’t going to be enough. This watch is much fancier than my old watch. It’s got all these bells and whistles and data tracking and sleep pattern. For the last few days I’ve been doing HRV tests in the morning, comforted by the fact that my watch has been telling me that I’m “ready for peak performance”. This morning I don’t do the test. I feel nauseous and out of it. I don’t need my watch to tell me I should stay in bed.

Instead I think back on times when I’ve had to deal with jet lag. Eating and drinking water usually helps my body stay alert. So that’s what I do. I eat dry granola straight out of the pack. I drink a big glass of water. That seems to do the trick.

4:30am – Deanne, Dasha, Wiebke and I are all dressed, running packs on, and pretty much ready to go. The earliest Park shuttle this time of year starts at 5am from the Visitor Center. We want to be at the trailhead by 5, so we call a cab. You can’t book one ahead of time as we found out last night, but apparently, this early in the morning it’s easy enough to get a ride.

4:37am – Cab is here to pick us up. The excitement is growing. Radio in the car is playing “We will rock you”, seems like an appropriate song to start this day.

4:50am – We’re at the trailhead. Last bathroom break before we start going down. I don’t really feel nervous anymore, I’m ready to go.

5:00am – We’re shuffling down South Kaibab trail. It’s still complete darkness, except for our headlamps lighting the way. The trail is narrow and rocky and we can’t quite see the drop on our right side, but we know it’s a big one. “Hug the wall” and “Stay on the mountain side” become our first couple of mantras for the day. The excitement is palpable, we can’t wait for the sun to start coming up.


6:17am – We’ve already been on the trail for 1 hour, but we’re pretty slow-moving in the dark. The sky has been slowly getting brighter on the open side of the trail. We’ve jogged passed the Ooh Aah point without seeing much of the view, but now the trail is becoming clearer, and the vistas start to reveal themselves. We stop at every bend, every switch back to take in the views and snap the first or many photos of the day.


We get to the short switch backs at Skeleton Point, just short of 5km. The Grand Canyon National Park official trail information says that you “Should not go past this point as a day hike”. There’s also an illustration of a guy puking. I think they’re trying to make a point. But it’s an important one. The Grand Canyon gets incredibly hot in the summer, and it’s easy to venture downhill without realizing how hard it might be to come back uphill. There’s also no water source on this trail until you get to the Colorado river at the bottom. This is definitely not a hike you can just improvise. We’re far from improvising. We’ve been training for this for months.

We come across a couple going down the trail. Their plan is to go to Phantom Ranch and come back on Bright Angel, another popular route – and a much shorter one. We ask them to snap a group photos of us, right on the bend of the trail, looking out to the west.

Dasha on my right, Wiebke and Dea on my left

The trail is now clearly visible and the views all around are incredible. This place is so vast, it loses all sense of scale. The Grand Canyon isn’t just a massive cliff over a big flat desert. It’s the largest expanse of sprawling mounts and rocky summits, criss-crossed by other, narrower canyons. The Colorado River runs at the bottom, carving the main divide between the South and North Rims, but other tributary streams connect with it, having created their own path through layers of rock, separating the earth into a dusty jigsaw puzzle. The sun is just starting to graze the very top of the highest summits.

7:13am – We’ve made it to Tipoff, a plateau about 7km from the start, 1000 meters down from the South Rim. This is where the East Tonto trail crosses South Kaibab and continues west to connect with Bright Angel, the trail that we will take later in the day to go back up.
From the plateau we get a first peek at the Colorado river, glowing orange from the early rays of light reaching it. The sun is finally peeking over the top of the South Rim behind us, but it will disappear again as we continue to descend.
We stop quickly for a bathroom break and a “costume change” for Dasha.

7:41am – We’re almost at the river. As we come to a short tunnel, we meet Ty, who is also on a Rim to Rim journey – although he plans to come back up the same way he came down, on South Kaibab, because “Bright Angel is so much longer and you’re staring at a rock wall for the longest time” (he’s not wrong as we will find out 14 hours later)

He offers to take another photo of our group in front of the tunnel. As we do, we spot a group of mule-riders on the other side of the river. They’re coming down towards the bridge and we want to make it across before they get there, or we’ll have to wait for them all to cross. So we start running through the tunnel and over the bridge, and we make it across just on time but have to tuck into a trail pocket right off the bridge, so we can be out of their way.


Mule riding looks pretty smooth and relaxed, but I honestly don’t know how comfortable I would feel perched on top of a swaying/bobbing quadruped, as it goes up a narrow rocky trail, with a 1000m drop on one side. I think I’ll take my chances at a long day on foot instead. (At some point we debated which would be faster, going up the trail on foot or on mule. But we didn’t get a chance to race them, so jury’s still out…)

As we cross the Colorado, we see the light glowing around the river bend. A raft floats down under the bridge. Could this get any more picturesque. I think not.
On the other side of the river, we join with North Kaibab trail, which we will follow for roughly 21km up to the top of the North Rim, and 21km back

8:13am – We are at Phantom Ranch. This is a pretty awesome spot. It’s the only commercial building in the canyon. You can buy snacks and even small lunch boxes, but it’s also famous for it’s lemonade. By all accounts, you HAVE to have the lemonade. The shop is still closed when we get to it in the morning, and although it will be open when we come back later that night, coffee will seem more appealing to us at that point. I guess we will have a reason to come back.

The ranch is surrounded by a campground, as well as a few cabins. It’s a popular destination as a turn around point, or as an overnight. You can actually book a full steak dinner at the Ranch for your night out in the canyon… There are a few people around. We chat in particular with one guy. We’re curious about the bicycle-looking contraption that is attached to his backpack. It is indeed a bike. He says he’s biking the Arizona trail. It goes across AZ from Utah to Texas, and crosses the Grand Canyon. Only one small caveat. You’re not allowed to bike in the Grand Canyon. Hence why he’s carrying his 70-pound bike on his back. For 36km. Way to make our day’s effort seem like a jog in the park. No matter how hard you go, there’s always someone going harder.

We take a bit of time to reset at the Ranch, filling up our flasks at the tap. We’re lucky that the water points along the trail have not been closed yet. The Grand Canyon National Park website mentions that they can be closed at any point between mid and late October, but it’s been warm enough that there haven’t been any freeze concerns. There are several campground along North Kaibab, as well as Bright Angel, so we’re able to plan on re-filling frequently along the way. Since we didn’t have any guarantee before-hand, we’re still all traveling with filters, so we could get water from the creek if needed.


8:29am – We’re now in “the box”, as the bottom portion of the trail is called. It’s quite a contrast from coming down South Kaibab, which has wide open views to the horizon. North Kaibab trail snakes through one of those cracks that we saw from above. We’re now flanked by high rock walls. A creek runs through it, and the abundance of water creates a true oasis of green, after all the rocks and dust of the descent trail.

We continue to “hug the wall”, not so much to avoid a drop, there’s just the creek off to the side, but more so because the trail is still pretty narrow, sometimes it even seems carved into the rock wall, as we shuffle below some impressive overhangs.
This whole section is fairly flat and run-able, and we make good progress on our distance. We go back and forth between either side of the creek, via wood and metal bridges.

9:46am – the scenery opens up and the canyon walls start spreading out. The sun is starting to hit the walls on the opposite side. We’re preparing ourselves for the heat, the bottom of the canyon is where it gets the hottest. But we continue to be in the shade for a good while, as the trail starts to very gradually go up – not a climb per say, more a gentle incline, elevating us slowly from the creek bed.

A man and a woman come up from behind and pass us. I do a double-take and as they get away from us in a swift shuffle, I turn to Dea and say “I think I know this guy”. Well I don’t know him-know him, but I think I recognize him. No more than a week ago I came across a short documentary called “The seven summits of of my neighbourhood”. In it, Brendan Leonard recounts how he set out to summit seven of the mountains around his house – none of them extremely challenging, but all of them closer and more affordable than going on the classic “7 summit” objective of climbing the highest mountain of each continent. A somewhat arbitrary goal, with an embraced Beau Miles-esque approach to backyard adventures, for no other purpose than …creating his own fun.

I very much enjoyed his film, and may or may not have gone down a rabbit hole of reading his articles and illustrations for Outside Magazine. I might even be following him on Strava, because he mentioned he started writing short poems as descriptions for his runs, which I think is cool – It’s a nice break up in my feed amongst all the local runs titled “another wet one! 🏃🏻‍♀️🌧️ ”.

So this couple who just casually past us on the North Kaibab trail, I’m pretty sure that was Brendan Leonard and his wife Hilary. What a random coincidence. I’ll have to check his Strava.

10:40am – We’ve traveled about 11k since Phantom Ranch and arrive at Cottonwood campground. Time for another round of water re-fill, fuel intake, bathroom break. All the campgrounds have outhouses, and I have to say, they’re all very clean and perfectly pleasant to use, if not for the fact that they’re all up a set of stairs (but we don’t mind the extra elevation, do we?)

After Cottonwood, Manzanita Campsite is only a couple of kilometres away, so we reach it pretty quickly, and then we start the climb towards the top of the North Rim.

11:53am – The beginning of the climb is very enjoyable. We’re all excited to be on the way up to our turn-around point. We take photos as we come to various scenic spots along the way. This side of the canyon is relatively closed-off compared to the south rim, but looking back the views are still quite spectacular.

12:52pm – Still climbing. We get to another small tunnel carved in the rock, Supai Tunnel. On the other side is another water station. I forget exactly when it hit, but I start to bonk big time. I feel that jet lag sensation returning and my legs becoming heavy and all my energy seems to drain into the ground. I start to worry about whether this is the lack of sleep catching up with me, or maybe the heat starting to have an impact, as the sun has finally caught up with us on this latest section of the climb. Or maybe it’s the elevation (the North Rim is higher than the South, at 2500m above sea level – South Rim is at 2000).

Either way, I’m struggling to keep up. We get to a bend in the trail and there’s some shade underneath a small tree, so I sit down and start assessing what to do. Dasha offers me some Tailwind powder with caffeine in it, which I gratefully take. In doing so I also chug the last quarter of Naak powder in my flask. In retrospect, it likely wasn’t the lack of sleep, but rather that I probably got behind on my nutrition while we were lower down, being distracted by the views, the photos and the conversation and less consistent with my calorie intake.

1:37pm – The Naak and the Tailwind combined, plus some additional fruit bar or waffle finally kick in, and I feel much better by the time we get to Coconino overlook, a popular viewpoint and turn around destination for shorter hikes from the top of the North Rim. We’re only about 1km away and 150m of elevation from the top.

At one point I look up, and the couple from earlier is coming back towards us. They’ve made it to the Rim and are on their way back already. I get a boost of confidence and blurt out at him, as they come near us “hey you’re the guy who made that movie about 7 summits?” (sadly my boost of confidence doesn’t prevent me from blanking out on his name in that moment). For a second I brace for a “what? ah sorry no, not me”, but instead I get a “what? oh yeah thanks” as he glides downhill past us behind is wife. I was right. It’s him. I guess I can keep going uphill now.

1:53pm – We’re here! the North Rim! How different it is from the other side!
We’ve crossed the Canyon and somehow found ourselves back in our Pacific Northwest forest! Douglas Fir, Alpens, Spruce densely line this side. Lichen on the rocks and pinecones on the ground. We’ve also left summer heat at the bottom and traveled up into autumn, as suggested by one short section of trail covered in fallen red and orange leaves.
This unexpected scenery adds to our excitement to finally be here, the halfway point, the middle R in our R2R2R journey.

It’s been a challenging climb for all four of us, at some point or another, in different ways, but we’re finally here. Ready to refill our water at the trailhead tap, take a moment, and then head back the other way. Except. Turns out they ARE closing the water today. At least on the North Rim. They in fact did, just minutes ago, as a park staff casually informs us. “Oh but there’s water at the Backcountry office, it’s only 1/2 mile away”.

Now. What’s half a mile, 0.8 km, when you’ve already traveled 36km and have another 40 to go (we still have another 40 to go!!). Well, if you haven’t mentally prepared for it, that half a mile might as well be a punch in the gut. That half a mile just kicked you in the groin and is now pointing at you and laughing as you lie on the ground, the last drop of water falling off that trailhead tap onto your face, one slow tear down your cheek.
A bit dramatic you say? Anyone who’s ran an ultra, and has come across a course marshal cheerily yelling “only 2 miles to go!” when your watch has already gone past the projected distance will know what I’m talking about. For the rest of you out there, how about you run 36k, with 1700m of elevation across the Grand Canyon and get back to me after.

With that said. In an ultra, mental is basically everything. On one of the last few week-ends before the trip, I spent a couple of hours studying the trail, writing down distances between each campgrounds and other key milestones. I also looked at where there would be water, in case the main system was closed. I knew we could filter from the creek, I had noted that the backcountry office had water year-round. I had made a mental note that we might have to travel an extra 1/2 mile for water. I was mentally prepared for the additional 0.8km. I’m not saying this to say ”look at how well prepared I was ”. With the exact same information, I very well could have been hoping the whole time that the water would be on, and crossing my fingers we wouldn’t have to go any further. I could have been hit even harder by the realization that unfortunately, we did. I’m mainly mentioning this to illustrate how a rather small change in plans can have a pretty big effect on the mental. And preparedness can, sometimes, help get past it.

“That’s ok” I say” it’s not that far to the backcountry office”. And so we figuratively picked ourselves up our from the ground and continued walking. It wasn’t actually as simple as “just go straight this way”. We had to go up a road and a trail and take a turn and look for it a bit. But eventually we find it and get our water. We even get to use a flushable toilet and wash our hands with clean water. Another small thing that can make a big difference.

As was part of my plan, now is the time i have my ham and cheese sandwich. Not sure if it is the cooler temperature, or the clean hands, but it tastes amazing. Summit-views levels of reward. We didn’t just make it to the North Rim and turned around. We worked for it, worked for our water, and worked for our appreciation of making it to this point. And it was worth it (yes, yes it was).

As I am mid-bite into the best ham and cheese sandwich there ever was, Wiebke does a quick time check and suggests that we probably don’t want to linger on too long, if we want to get back to Phantom Ranch before night fall. We do still have 40km to go…And with that it is time to head back…

3:08pm – Running down the steeper portion of North Kaibab is very fun, and we enjoy moving fast again and riding that high of being halfway through our day – well, technically not quite halfway since the way back via Bright Angel is longer. But again, it’s all about those mental checkpoints and as far as we’re concerned, we’ve completed the first half of the journey and then some. 2Rs down, one R to go.

4:17pm- After the big descent we reach the open canyon vista, funneling us back towards the “box”. For the first time since my bonk on North Kaibab, I start to feel a bit tired. That stretch of trail seems longer and more monotonous than on the way in. I start to notice that my feet hurt, and I am not so excited about running. I don’t remember exactly what I do about it. I want to think that i just stuck to my strategy of eating and drinking, and eventually somehow, my feet don’t hurt as much and I am running again.

5:37pm – We’ve made it back to the narrow part. The light is starting to fade. We likely won’t be at Phantom Ranch before dark, but we’re moving fairly quickly, the trail now on a gentle downhill from here to the Colorado river. I set my pace behind Dasha’s and follow her on the narrow passage along the creek, rock walls towering around us. There won’t be a sunset for us tonight, only our ability to see the trail until we don’t.

We cross the last bridge over the creek and put our headlamps on. The rest of the way goes by fairly smoothly. I do remember being interrupted mid Gopro monologue, by jumping over a big spider on the trail. For dramatic effect we’ll say it was a tarantula (evidently all spiders in the Grand Canyon get to be called Tarentulas…according to Dasha).

6:00pm? I’m a bit fuzzy on the actual time. It’s now pitch black and there’s not much point in taking any photos (except, now that I think about it, to be able to go back and look at time stamps).

We’re back at Phantom Ranch. We weren’t sure if the small cafeteria shop would be open, but it is. As I mentioned earlier, we’re not so much into lemonade now. We’ve been ingesting sugary snacks for the last 12 hours. Also it’s starting to be a bit colder. Chicken broth would be amazing right now. Or miso soup. Dasha gets us all coffee and we cheers at a picnic table. Cheers to having made it this far. Being so close to the finish. What an adventure this has been already. We’ve got one more climb to go? Bring on the climb! We’ve got warm coffee in our belly and the spirit of friendship in our souls, we’re good to go!

We leave Phantom Ranch and make one last stop at the restrooms before crossing the Colorado (What do you know, another toilet with running water. Can’t believe we had to go all the way to the backcountry office to wash our hands…)
We cross the bridge and start following Bright Angel Trail, ready for the climb. Ready for the uphill. Ready for the steep finish. Ready for…what’s this? soft sand under our shoes? are we on a beach? is this trail going down? Are we about to dip into the river?

You know what’s harder for the mental than an extra half a mile? A trail that goes down when you know, you KNOW you’re ultimately going up.

The first few kilometers though, are pretty fun. The caffeine, the darkness, the accumulated hours on feet, all contribute to some group silliness. I can’t remember specifics, but since we can no longer be distracted by the view, we distract ourselves and each other.

There are a couple of campgrounds along the trail, and we see people coming down even in these late hours of the day. One older gentleman warns us that there is a section of the trail higher up that is flooded by a nearby creek. “ You WILL get you feet wet” he says. Oh we will, will we? Clearly this gentleman didn’t account for where we come from and the extensive amount of practice we’ve had with jumping over trails-turned-torrential-waterfall, post atmospheric river. It is pretty clear to us that we are going to do everything in our power to NOT get our feet wet. Not after 16 hours on dry desert trail. Even if it means hopping from wet rock to wet log after 16 hours on dry desert trail.

And hop we do, balancing precariously from one foot to the next and climbing off to the sides to avoid the water. Or at least three of us do. Wiebs takes one look at Dea, Dasha and I, exerting all our remaining caffeine-fuelled energy into avoiding puddles. She shakes her head and without hesitation, wades ankle-deep right through the stream. And we all respect her for it. (but between you and I…hopping rocks in that moment was actually quite fun and took our mind off of the fact that we still had a bit of a ways to go).

Bright Angel is 12km long. Roughly 1400m of elevation. When you look at the elevation profile, it looks like it climbs fairly evenly all the way through. But I swear it felt like we barely climbed at all, except near the end. It was mostly a long, gradual grind to the top. What did Ty say? “you’re staring at a rock wall for the longest time”. Fact.

9:44pm – We pass Three-mile Resthouse and stop for one last water refill. I get splashed all over my upper body by water aggressively shooting out of the tap. But at least my feet are still dry.

According to Wiebke, we only have about 1 to 1.5 hour to go. According to Deanne, we’ve only got about 600meters of elevation. According to my watch, we’re at 71k. When about half an hour later, Wiebke announces that we probably only have about 1 to 1.5 hour to go, and Dea concurs that indeed, we only have about 600 meters of elevation to go, I let them both know that from now on I would rather not be aware of how much time or climbing is left – thank you very much. Instead I’ll just be staring at my watch until it reaches the distance that I think is to the finish.

One interesting thing about the R2R2R is that in all our research we couldn’t seem to find any consistent result for distance or elevation between all the people that had done it. I guess GPS signals down in the bottom can get a bit wonky, and different watches have different levels of accuracy. While we have apparently been stagnating for 30min at the 600m elevation mark, Wiebs’ watch already has her at near 75k, while Dea, Dasha and I are much farther behind. (Granted, Wiebs is the fastest of the group, but not so much that she would have done an extra 5k by the time we were done – and I don’t believe all those Naak-induced pee breaks off the side of the trail account for that difference either).
Dea’s watch in the meantime must have indeed gone for a dip in the Colorado river because, as we find out the next morning, it indicates that she had done 17,000 meters of descent.
All that to say, that it is virtually impossible for either one of us to know for a fact when we will be done. But I have my heart and mind set on 76,5km and so that’s what I hang on to in those last gruelling kilometers.

To be fair, the trail isn’t even that technical or steep. We’re mainly just, well…tired. The one annoying thing is that large pieces of wood punctuate the trail every few feet, but not really evenly spaced or evenly high. So it makes it very awkward to keep a consistent stride, and know whether to step ON the wood or OVER the wood and doesn’t the wood know that we’ve been at this for 17 hours – 17 hours! Damn wood…

Every once in a while I do look up at the silhouetted black wall against the dark sky and say to myself “that can’t be right”. But it is. We have to get all the way up there.
I don’t feel like eating anything else at that point, but anytime I feel fatigue creep up more or my moral go down, I take one big gulp of my Naak water and that seems to actually help, one push at a time.


10:30ish pm – By that point we all have our heads down and even though it feels like it will go on forever, all we can do is keep going, keep putting one foot in front of the other, keep stepping over that damn wood as gracefully as a baby deer. Speaking of deer, we’ve been noticing pairs of glowing eyes around us, shining in the cone of our headlamps, up on the canyon walls.Someone mentions mountain lions and we’re all in agreement that, for sure, we’re surrounded by big cats. And then two long-horn sheep bounce up the side of the wall right above us. It’s a cool moment, captured in my mind pretty much as if I had tried to take a photo of it in the dark. Out of focus, fuzzy, under-exposed, with glowing eyeballs

And then I see the tunnel. I recognize that tunnel, remembering it suddenly from the trip we took with Brice back in 2016. On a whim, we had decided to travel 4 hours from the Mohave Desert to the Grand Canyon. After driving 272 miles in the rain, we parked the car and walked up to the South Rim and marveled at ….a complete white-out. Thick fog obscuring any view beyond the edge. Our first time at the Grand Canyon, we almost didn’t see the Grand canyon. We hadn’t planned for a big day hike, just a short one, but with the rain and fog we debated even hiking at all. Then the clouds started to dissipate, so we decided to venture down the nearest trail, Bright Angel, and we made it down a few switchbacks to a short tunnel in the rock, a good point to stop and take in the vastness, slowly revealing itself from behind the white veil. And that tunnel, THAT tunnel, is what i see now, just a few meters away, which means the top is near. We are almost done.

The first time I saw the Grand Canyon in 2016
Bright Angel trail, that same rainy day, after the clouds started to dissipate. The tunnel is up on the right

Dea is slightly ahead and as she gets to a bend in a switchback she stops and turns around and points up to a building and a sign. I mistakenly think that we’re at the trailhead but turns out there is one more stretch, just a few extra meters and then finally the four of us are up there, off the trail, feet on the South Rim. The last of the Rs.

11:00pm. 18hours after we started. We are done.

The rest is a bit fuzzy. We might have high-fived or fist-pumped or something, or we might have done none of the above because the truth is the wind is howling and it is incredibly cold, so we hastily retreat to the nearby restrooms and then there is some confusion about what exactly we are doing there, are we just taking a moment to put jackets on, are we all going into one stall to keep warm and celebrate or?

Luckily our hotel is only a short walk away (I know, more walking, but contrary to the “North Rim water debacle”, we already knew about that part, so it’s ok). Except we haven’t really planned that part, and between arriving in the dark last night and starting in the dark this morning, we haven’t quite gotten our bearings in terms of where exactly our hotel is located in relation to the Rim.

Dea is pretty certain that if we just go straight ahead we should get there, but after going down into a ditch and across the train tracks we decide to maybe take shelter from the freezing wind and consult google maps on our actual location and destination.
We didn’t make it 77km across the Grand Canyon only to get lost in the last 500 meters to our hotel.

After looking at the map we establish that following the road might be more efficient than going down ditches, although we still end up crossing train tracks twice more somehow, and I also decide that I would rather jump over a small rock wall rather than go around it because that makes total sense after an 18-hour run/hike, and then eventually we are in the parking lot of the hotel and shortly after, we are inside. For real this time, we are done.

The next day I will laugh to tears after we realize that we likely added another 0.75 kilometers to our day, based on the fact that I forgot to turn off my watch and it kept running through the “South Rim Expedition of 2023” to get back to our hotel – and that we can actually see the trailhead from our window.

But in the meantime, we each enjoy a well-deserved warm shower before passing out on our beds.

I wonder what my watch will say about my sleep pattern tomorrow.

Epilogue

We had given ourselves a two-day window, in case weather was an issue, but since we did the run on the first day, we enjoy day two as a rest day at the Grand Canyon. Dea has made plans to see a friend who works in the village, so Dasha, Wiebs and I go out for a stroll around the South Rim.

Finally we get to see it in the daylight, and really appreciate the scenery from the top. It’s also pretty neat to be able to trace our itinerary from above, from different viewpoints.

From Bright Angel trailhead, we can clearly see the Colorado River, as well as the narrower canyon through which runs North Kaibab trail.

From Mather Point, a bit more to the East, we think we can actually see the bend in South Kaibab trail where we took our first group photo.

From both places we can see the North Rim, far in the distance. It quite literally puts into perspective what we did the day before.

Later, Dea joins us again and we go to another viewpoint, this time in the West, to finally watch a beautiful sunset over the Grand Canyon.

Sedona, AZ – Bear Mountain, Bell Rock, Courthouse Butte

Day 5

It wasn’t raining when we got up, but the sky wasn’t clear either. Still we decided to chance a sunrise. Since we were not sold on the outcome, we decided to pick a spot that didn’t actually require any hiking – a viewpoint near the trailhead to Devil’s Bridge.

Devil’s bridge by the way, listed as a “must-do” on every Sedona list. But we decided to avoid it. From what I understand Devil’s bridge is a rock platform that people get their pictures taken on. And there’s a line up just to do that. Even that morning, waiting for some sun rays to peek through the clouds, we kept getting distracted by the headlights of multiple shuttle buses driving to the trailhead, unloading people eager for the IG shot. No thanks!

After a cloudy sunrise we grabbed breakfast nearby at Layla’s bakery, and since it was still pretty early, we decided to go for another short hike.


We started heading down the trail to Chicken point, which is supposed to be another nice view point. There was no one else on the trail, so in my head was already celebrating having the view point to ourselves.

Well…clearly I forgot about one of Sedona’s favorite tourist activity: Jeep tours and ATV riding on rocks. We got to the viewpoint to found a circus of pink jeeps and muddy off-road vehicles, and people everywhere. It actually was pretty comical, and to be honest, those ATVs looked like they would be quite fun.

The view point was very nice nonetheless, and we went a bit higher up on the rocks to get away from the crowd. We could see Bell Rock and Courthouse Butte, which I had planned to run around on later.

Next, we headed back towards Sedona and spent a few hours at the Tlaquepaque Arts and Crafts Village. Its architecture copies that of an authentic Mexican village, with little streets and alcoves. Most of the shops are expensive art galleries, fancy gift shops and restaurants. It was definitely a higher-end experience from the two blocks of tourist shops at the main Sedona road junction.

After some window shopping and grabbing food in a Mexican restaurant, we headed out for one last outdoor activity.

We ran a roughly 8k loop at the base of Courthouse Butte and Bell Rock. A really fun trail and a nice way to shake out the legs after walking in and out of stores for the last few hours.

Day 6
Last day in Sedona, we hiked Bear Mountain as our final hike of the trip. This was an 8km out and back with about 600m of elevation gain, so definitely on the steeper side. When we got to the trailhead clouds obscured the top of the mountain, but we didn’t get too phased by it.

The hike had a mix of steep sections and sections across flatter grounds. When we got to the first plateau, we looked back and were able to see where we started down below.

Then we continued climbing into the fog. It actually made the hike pretty cool. Even though we missed out on views, it gave the trail a more intimate feel, especially since it wasn’t very busy.


We’re pretty used to running in the rainforest in BC, and fog, or being shrouded in clouds is a pretty common occurence, so this felt both familiar and new since the terrain was very different from home. There were very little trees, and mostly low, dry bushes on rocks.

We got to the end of the trail and couldn’t really see past the edge of the mountain (thankfully there was a sign at the top to tell us we had arrived).

As we made our way down the lower portion was clearing up a bit more, so we did get some views of the valley.

We had lunch at the car, then since it wasn’t very late yet, we decided to squeeze in one more short hike/cave sighting from a nearby trail.

That last cave was called “Birthing cave”.

Sedona, AZ – Soldier’s Pass, Boyton Canyon, Subway Cave

This is the first of what may be a couple of long-overdue post, about trips we took in the last couple of years.

In October of 2022, Brice participated in Javelina Jundred, a 100miler race down in Phoenix Arizona.

Our friend Dea had mentioned that she had always wanted to visit Sedona, which is a couple of hours north of Phoenix. After doing a quick research, we agreed that it looked like a really cool spot to explore, so that’s where we decided to go.

Accommodations in the Sedona area were quite pricey, so after looking around for an airbnb, we chose one in Cottonwood, a town 20min south. In hindsight I’m really glad we stayed there and not in Sedona proper. It turned out that Cottonwood was a much cuter small town.

The town of Sedona itself was quite underwhelming. There’s the main road that goes east-west and is lined with strip malls, and then the “center of town” is no more than a couple of blocks of tourist shops and restaurants, none of which appealed to us whatsoever.

The appeal of the town lies in the incredible landscape around it. Impressive rock formations that seem to have sprouted in the middle of the desert, and the easy access to most of these spots, pretty much off the side of the road, makes it a very, very popular tourist destination.

After reading a bit about hikes and scenic spot in the area, I learned that to really enjoy Sedona, you have to get up early. Catching the sunrise on top of one of the iconic rocks is a pretty magical experience, and certainly the best way to avoid the bulk of the crowd. Trail heads start getting busy at 8am and by 9am the parking lot to some of the most popular hikes is full.

With all that said, we really did enjoy our trip a lot, even if we had to adjust our morning routine. Getting up a 4:30 or 5am everyday, to drive out to a short hike and catch the sunrise from a elevated vantage point.

As always I planned a bit of a trip itinerary, and tried to keep our sunrise and day hikes within the same areas.

We flew out on December 24th, and landed in Phoenix around 12pm. We had rented a car with an online service called Turo – basically like airbnb but for your car – which turned out to be very effective, especially in saving us the wait time at the airport car rental counter.

After stopping to get groceries, we drove out to Cottonwood and made it there just after sunset.
Since it was Christmas eve, I had looked ahead at restaurants for dinner, and we opted for Merkin Vineyards.

Day 1

Sunrise: Little Sugarloaf Summit
Hike: Soldier's pass Cave and Loop
Sunset: On the road

On Christmas morning, we headed out early so we could catch our first sunrise.
We drove to the Thunder Mountain trail head, and hiked 1.8km to Little Sugarloaf summit. The first sunrise did not disappoint.

Afterwards, we headed out to a bakery to grab coffee and breakfast, then we drove to another trailhead, this time for a longer hike.
We hiked/ran a 15k loop on Soldier Pass trailhead. The first half of the loop was the busiest, because it lead to one of Sedona’s classic attractions: a cave.

Caves are all over Sedona. Some are more accessible than others, but all are appealing because they make a great backdrop for photos. And of course they attract a lot of visitors.

What’s funny about all those cave shots you see on social media is how different the caves often look in real life. When you get to the cave, you realize how the photo seen online only shows a very specific angle of the cave, or had to be taken with a wide lens from a specific spot in order to get that result.

Soldier Pass cave was down a small spur off of the main trail. It was definitely busy, and also, a lot more challenging to access than most people probably expected. You had to climb short but quite steep and technical slope to get there. After we left the cave and returned to the main trail, we kept going around the loop, and pretty much left all the crowd behind. We only passed one other couple of hikers in the whole rest of the way after that.

We did have a fun wildlife sighting, an actual pair of Javelinas, which look a bit like wild boars that eat cactus.

By the time we were done, it was just after lunch time (so really a lot of daytime left :P)
We had brought sandwiches which we enjoyed at the trailhead, then decided to head out to the town to see what it was all about.

We drove through the main intersection then headed south on 179. We drove down a bit and then stopped at a store off the side of the road, which had just the most eclectic assortment of every trinket imaginable. We spent some time just wandering the various parts of the store.

The store was near another Sedona landmark, the Chapel of the Holy Cross, listed as one of the popular spot to catch sunset. And yeah, popular it was, just parking was a bit of a zoo actually, but we were there so we found a spot and walked the short distance up the road to the Church plaza. The view was definitely worth it, especially seeing the minor effort it took, but it was still a bit early for sunset, and we didn’t feel like hanging around the crowd, so we left and drove out to a more residential area.

The nice thing about Sedona is that those massive rock features are visible pretty much every where you look, so we parked on a quiet street and watched the warm light slowly go down behind one of them.

After that we continued South on 179 and eventually turned off onto a couple of smaller country roads, taking us back to Cottonwood.


Day 2

Sunrise: Doe Mountain
Hike: Boyton Canyon & Subway Cave
Sunset: On the road

Another early rise, this time we headed out to Doe Mountain for Sunrise. the hike was only 2.4k return, with 156m elevation.
the top of Doe mountain is really a flat plateau, with wide open vistas towards the south east.

As the sun was coming up, we also saw witnessed another tourist favourite: the rise of hot air balloons, in sync with the sun. It was really beautiful.

Doe mountain trail head was a bit more remote from the main road, so we planned on doing another hike nearby, without going into town. After some breakfast by the car, we headed to Boyton canyon.

The trail was a difference experience than the day before. Running through a narrow canyon, it was definitely cooler and more humid. the vegetation was completely different from the desert, it was like a microclimate caught between high rock walls.

We went all the way to the end of the trail, where the canyon walls meet. Our timing was pretty impeccable, as we arrived at the end just in time to see the sun start to rise over the wall, and we could sit for a minute in the warm light, after running in the shade for a bit.

On the way back, we took another detour to another cave. This one is probably one of the most popular and photographed on Instagram: Subway cave

The cave was actually for the most part, a natural path carved into the side of the wall, snaking around a few bends. It was wide enough to walk safely but also wide open to the outside.

We had to climb, once again a bit of a steep section to get there.

As expected it was quite crowded, but we managed to capture a few people-free shots.
The shot that the cave was most famous for was a narrowing of the walls on one end, with a wider opening in the center.

After we finished the hike, we had some food off the side of the road, then went to look for a coffee shop to just relax for bit. We found a spot in one of the strip malls of the main road and enjoyed some quiet time there for a bit, then we went back out to find a spot for sunset.

It was a bit overcast, so we didn’t get a clear view of the sun going down, but it was still really cool to see the colours change over the rocky landscape.

Road Trip to the Yukon – Part 5 – Watson Lake to Faro

August 11  – Watson Lake to White Horse

In Watson lake we had our first experience of the Government campgrounds, which are peppered all over the Yukon. They only cost $12 a night, for a site with picnic table and firepit, and wood is provided for free. No amenities, but as we found out through our various stays, the outhouses were always remarkably clean and well stocked up in TP. Overall we never had a bad experience at one of those campgrounds, and we always knew more or less what to expect, as the set up was pretty consistent.

Brice made pancakes for breakfast (or tried to, they didn’t quite turn out how he normally does them). Then we left our camp. We stopped at the Sign Post Forest, which displays signs (or license plates) made by people who visited.

It was started in the 1940’s by a GI who was feeling homesick and was trying to make something that reminded him of home. It evidently became a thing that people do when coming through the town. Apparently there are now over 80 000 signs! I guess it’s the local equivalent of the bridge of locks in Paris – except there’s no danger of the forest of posts collapsing under the weight of the signs…it seems it could still expend for a bit.

We then headed off and spent a few hours driving, making only one stop in Teslin (about halfway between Watson Lake and Whitehorse). We visited the Teslin Tlingit Heritage Center, which has a small display of Tlingit artefacts – small but impressive, with beautiful beaded garments and carved masks by local artists.

We watched a 15 min documentary about the celebrations the Tlingit people organize when their relatives from Juneau, AK come to visit. 
The Tlingit people originated from Coastal Southern Alaska, but some migrated inland for fur trading, and as craftsmanship evolved they were able to spend more time in the cold interior winter, eventually settling away from the coast. The descendant of the migrants refer to themselves as the Inland Tlingit, but still have a very strong bond to their coastal cousins, which they celebrate with regular potlatches.
For a period of time though, these gatherings were restricted by the ban on potlatches, which was in place between the mid 1880’s and the 1950’s both in Canada and the US.

The celebrations take place in and around the heritage Center, which also serves as a meeting place. Normally open to visitors, they haven’t been in the recent 1.5 years due to Covid.

We also stopped by the George Johnston museum, but it was closed that day so we made a note to try and stop again when we drive back a few weeks later.

Our next stop was in Johnson’s crossing, after Brice spotted a bakery sign on the side of the road, and  we had a couple of pastries for afternoon snack.

Eventually we arrived in Whitehorse and this will come as no surprise to anyone who knows Brice, our very first stop was at a Car-wash to rinse off all the dirt and mud collected along the way.

We had booked another Airbnb for that night. This time we had found a private Bed + Bath in a private house. The set-up was clean and comfortable, but the hosts were not super welcoming, barely saying hi when we got in. Mind you, the previous hosts in Old Hazelton hadn’t been super warm either, so it’s likely Covid had something to do with it. We hadn’t been in an Airbnb since before the pandemic, and our last experience before that was a 10-day stay in a private room in Austin, Tx, where we got to meet and interact with our hosts on a daily basis. But of course the pandemic would have had a huge impact on how much interaction hosts are trying to have (or not to have) with their guests.

We put our stuff down and headed out for dinner, taking advantage of being in a city to go to a proper restaurant. It was almost a bit strange to be sleeping inside a house, after all the camping, but still nice to be able to shower and sleep under a roof, and not have to set up and take down camp.

As we arrived in Whitehorse, I was checking the forecast, and it looked like a lot of rainy days ahead in the Kluane area, which is where we had planned on heading to next. I didn’t really feel like hiking in the rain and missing out on scenery covered in clouds, so we decided to head out to Dawson City early. But instead of driving there in one day, we would take the long way up and spend 3 days doing side trips to Faro & Keno, places that weren’t originally on the itinerary. In turn, we would go to Kluane after coming back from Dawson City, hoping that we would have better luck with the weather then. It also meant trading the Carcross Tagish/Aitlin loop we had also intended later on for this plan but so it goes. At least  we had enough buffer time on this trip to be able to make these adjustments, as we didn’t have a set return date in Vancouver. And as we’ve learned on other trips, it’s always good to have a set itinerary, but be prepared to adjust it on the fly.

August 12 – Driving to Faro

In the morning, we took advantage of the city to take care of a few errands, such as getting more cash for the campgrounds, and restocking on groceries. Then we stopped at Alpine Bakery on the way out, to enjoy a couple of sweet pastries in their cute garden patio, and grab some savory treats for lunch later. Then we got on the road, headed North on the Klondike Highway.

We made our first stop at the Fox lake Burn rest area, and walked down the short interpretive trail that leads to a ridge and provides information on forest fires. It described their impact on the ecosystem and how they can be beneficial in the natural cycle of things, allowing new plant and animal species to repopulate an area after a fire. A lot of the naturally caused fires (usually lightening) happen in more remote areas, and they are often monitored but not intervened on. Man-caused fires on the other hand tend to happen closer to populated area and of course cause bigger problems, as they impact human infrastructures and lives. And global warming is making it easier for fires to spread, with vegetation being a lot drier and the lack of rain to control them.

The ridge was incredibly windy! It reminded me of  Patagonia, and the types of wind we encountered there, sometimes able to knock you off your feet. I could see how fire would propagate at incredible speed with winds of the sort.

Our next stop was at the Braeburn Lodge. We came up to it just as I was reading in the Milepost that “their cinnamon rolls can feed 4 people”. Clearly we had to stop and check for ourselves.

Sure enough, the buns where the size of a small cake. It was lunch time though, so we decided against buying one (also, they were REALLY big and as much as I like pastry, that was a bit too much for me), and instead went for a grilled cheese sandwich – which by the way could also have fed 4 people. It was super simple but very tasty.

Our last stop on the Klondike that day was at the Montague Roadhouse Historic Site. Until the beginning of the 20th century, the Klondike river was the main way of transportation between Whitehorse and Dawson City. Then in the early 1900’s, the Overland Trail (now Klondike highway) was built to connect the two towns by horse and carriage. The Montague Roadhouse is the only remaining trace of the pioneer-era rest stop along the trail. Rest stops of the sort, with overnight accommodation, were found every 40 km or so along the trail. You can still see some of the main roadhouse building at the site, and read about the history of it.

Once we got to Carmacks, we left the Klondike Highway for our first side trip, heading East to Faro on the Campbell Highway.

We set up camp at the John Connolly municipal park, a nice campground with hot showers (always a plus). We were quite tired from the long drive but decided to take the short hike along the Van Gorder waterfall trail to stretch our legs.

 

Mosquitos were, once again, a bit aggressive (we wore our bug jackets to the waterfall!), and it rained for a good portion of the night, but we still had a cozy sleep in our little tent.

August 13 – Running on Faro trails and drive to Tatchun lake

The next morning we decided to go for a trail run before heading back out.
There’s a network of trails around Faro, which don’t actually seem to exist on google map, but I picked up a good old paper map from the visitor center across from the campground (they also have a pdf version here).  Aside from the overall scale reference, there’s no indication of length, elevation, etc. but it did look like we could do a roughly 10km loop around the town, starting right at the campsite so that’s what we set off for. The trails all have animal names and signs at some intersections but it did take a bit of navigating with the map to stay on our intended route. The trails were not very technical, albeit pretty muddy, but we encountered a few decent hills – and we did get couple of nice views from above the town. As suggested by the map, these trails are likely more used in the winter for cross-country skiing and snowmobiles.

Mosquitos weren’t as bad when we were running, and we managed to stay mostly dry aside from the 93% humidity in the air. After the run, we enjoyed the hot showers then had our savory pastries from the day before for lunch. We ate them on the patio of the information center, which was looked after by the most lovely lady, who offered us free coffee. We then headed back to Carmacks, to continue our journey up the Klondike highway.

The campground in Carmacks sounded good on paper – offering waterfront campsites and burger joint, but when we got there it didn’t turn out to be that exciting – a messy-looking stretch of ground near the river, only separated from the main road by the parking lot, and the pub didn’t look very inviting. It was also quite busy, which was a third reason for us to continue on, to try and find a quieter, more appealing campsite for the night.

We continued North and landed at the Tatchun lake Government Campground, located a few km down a dirt road – away from the highway traffic noise. Note that there is a Tatchun Creek campground up the road, but that one is also near the road, exposed to traffic noise.

For the first time in our trip it felt like the mosquitos were less intense, probably because temperatures were starting to lower. We set up camp a bit earlier than other days, so we had time to relax in the evening, work on photos, write our travel journal, and enjoy some time by the fire.

Training for Squamish 50k


This post is long overdue (I ran the Squamish 50k in August 2018) but better late than never. Also this is mainly a pretext to post a recap of last summer adventures, as we start gearing up for the upcoming summer – and training for the next race.

Back in the fall of 2017, a group of runners got together at our place to look at the 2018 racing calendar, and pick some ultras to sign up for – particularly a “destination race” that we could participate in as a group and make a fun goal race out of. The evening was somewhat un-fructuous, due to conflicting schedules and in the end, we weren’t able to come up with a race to do all together.

Still looking to sign up for my second ultra, I soon-after realized that the perfect event was right under my nose: the Squamish 50k, probably one of the most popular local races near Vancouver. If I wanted to train for a fun event and spend a week-end surrounded by trail-running friend, this one was no doubt the best option.

The race has become very popular in the last couple of years, in parts due to its Race Director Gary Robbins, becoming the most notorious Canadian to participate in the infamous Barkley Marathons. The last few years, race registration for Squamish 50 had sold out in just a few days and even hours. With that in mind, I was online to sign up at 7am on registration day. That year, the race sold out within 45 minutes.

Brice had also decided to tackle, for the second time, the gnarly 50/50 challenge – running the 50 mile course on the Saturday, followed by the 50k course on the Sunday.
With both our registrations taken care of, and the race 9 months away, we proceeded with our winter plans of running for fun, trying out some winter sports, and not worrying about training for a little while.

Most of my running in the winter months consisted in our Saturday morning runs with the Salomon Vancouver Trail Lab – a really great running group led by the fast and fearless Katie Mills. Katie always came up with new fun routes, keeping us motivated to get up at 6am on rainy Saturdays, to go run around the wet and muddy forest of the North Shore.
Aside from those weekly 10-15k, I didn’t do much running, favoring instead a few ski and snow-shoe outings.

Training

Early April, I flew back to France for my brother’s wedding, and did something I never thought I would do back when I lived there: I went for a couple of runs around my home town. The first one was really more of a pretext to insta-document the places I used to roam as a teenager. The second one left my family slightly baffled – and even myself a bit surprised – when I decided to go for a 10k run from my mom’s house, the day after my brother’s wedding. Somehow a 10k shake up after dancing my butt off til 4am seemed to be just what I needed.

When I flew back to Vancouver, I counted time left before Squamish, and figured 20 weeks was probably a good place to start some kind of a training plan.

I looked online a bit, and found a 19-week, “run your first ultra” plan sample. It listed out suggested volume per week, along with weekly long run distances, and a couple of examples of a week running breakdown, so I decided to use it as a guide and put together a little google spreadsheet to keep track of my progress.

Right off the bat, I realized I might not have chosen the most realistic plan. Total volume for the 1st week was 50k, with a 25k long run. I had barely ran 20k per week in the previous 6 months, so going from that to more than double in the span of one week really didn’t seem like the smartest choice (they say that you’re not supposed to increase you weekly volume by more than 10% a week in order to stay injury-free).

I decided not to overthink it too much, and broke down my weekly training into more manageable goals – a couple of road runs, one “long” trail run, and Sunday for big hikes/time on feet day.

This is the log of my training volume. The far right columns were the initial targets from the plan I downloaded. As you can see, my actual was pretty far off, with an average of 40k per week…Also, the sunday mileage was a long hike most of the time.

When trying to remember what my training looked like for the Gorge 50k the previous year, I came up blank. All I could remember was that I injured my foot in the first week of training, resulting in 6-weeks of water-running, and I ran no more than three or four 25k-and-over long runs, 30k being my longest distance before the race.

It’s hard to compare two different races, especially over 1 year apart. I knew my fitness level had significantly improved since Gorge50k, mainly due to the regular amount of mountain hiking that we did. I also knew that the Squamish course had a gnarly reputation, from attending as a crew and spectator 3 years in a row. I had run the 23k course in 2016, and remembered the endless climb to the top of Mount of Phlegm, albeit the lowest climb of the whole 50k course. So even though I knew I was a stronger runner than when I ran my first Ultra, I really had no clue how I would do on this one.

Running the Squamish 23k in 2016

I’ll tell you right there. My training plan was pretty hackily–crafted, and my training turned out to be just about as unstructured and miss-matched as could be.
I think a few things ended up making it relatively successful though, as far as my racing goals went.

Most of my training involved crashing other people’s work-out sesh’:
– My friend Pargol is a slightly compulsive (said with love) BCMC climber. Tagging along on one of her climbs once a week for a few weeks turned into a great opportunity to improve my climbing game, while providing social gathering opportunities (she always manages to bring other people along with her).

Pargol (middle photo) participates every year in the Multi -Grouse Grind challenge, climbing the trail as many times as possible in the span of 18 hours. In the last two years, we’ve joined her for a few repeats, along with many other friends. Her current best is 13 climbs in one day.

– Our friend Jeanelle started putting together running work-outs for a few friends on Thursday morning, i.e. speed or hill training in Stanley Park. I only managed to tag along a few times, but I’m pretty sure it helped – if not to make me faster, at least to make me more mentally resilient to hard effort.

– In the last couple of months before the race, my friend Wiebke and I got into a steady routine of going on a trail run after work on a week night. While we both work a somewhat monopolizing job, we took turns motivating each other to drive out of the city to the North Shore, even for a “chill” 10k – which almost inevitably turned into an involuntary speeding competition. It also provided a great excuse for a “venting-about-our-day” session and however lazy and un-inspired to run we felt going in, we always finished stoked and energized by the end.

Running down Old Mountain Highway with Wiebke, on a wet Thursday night

Because I know there are so many nurses working 12-hour shifts, or full-time moms-of-four out there who still manage to sneak in their daily run and even train for marathons, I feel slightly guilty saying that my biggest challenge was to find the time to train. I only have to take care of myself (and to be frank, Brice does at least 50% of the job for me), and my main obstacle is my 8am-7pm desk job, which while I do love it, can be slightly overwhelming at times. (That being said, I also know loads of free-lancers with more flexible schedules who can go for  long runs on a week day so maybe I don’t feel that guilty after all :P).

I figured pretty soon that If I wanted to run during the week, I’d have to take advantage of the one daily chunk of time that otherwise felt a little “wasted” – my commute.
I could make it as short as a 3.5k, straight door-to-door run, or I could take the longer, more scenic way around the Vancouver seawall, running along the water edge and by one or several of Vancouver’s urban beaches.
I did this once or twice a week, and generally ran from work to home, rather than the other way around, adding anywhere from 4 to 15k per run to my weekly volume.

Funny enough those road runs were some of the most challenging ones I had during my training. For some reason, a 6k run on flat pavement often felt harder and more sluggish than a 15k run on trails.

I mentioned this to Brice one day as I was walking in the door and he looked at me, lifted my pack and declared “that’s why”. Run-commuting means that you generally have to carry a change of work-appropriate clothes (and shoes) with you. Add to that potential lunch left-overs, an umbrella, wallet, phone, keys… Turns out I was running with up to 3-4 kilos on my back. No wonder I felt so much better when I carried nothing other than a ½ litter of water…

My trusty Salomon pack, which I usually use for hiking, but also running if we go into more remote areas, to make sure I can carry all my essentials with me. Also doubles as a commuter/gym bag during the week…

When I ran the Gorge 50k, my main challenge was the sharp knee pains that I started to experience at km 30, and prevented me from running any downhill in the last 10km. Investigating the cause of it afterwards, I learned that they were likely due to tight IT bands, and other thigh/hip muscles progressively stiffening and pulling on the knee.
The main thing I learned from that experience, and continuing to run regularly after, is that strengthening and taking care of those muscles was just as important as training to get stronger and faster – in fact, it was probably the best way to get stronger and avoid injury.

I found out through a friend about this massage therapist using a technique called rolfing. The method consists in targeting specific points in the muscle fascias, and releasing tension which cause improper posture and structural imbalances in the body. The massage studio was only a few blocks from our house so I decided to check it out. I felt the benefits of the treatment after the very first session, and booked a series of 10 appointments – 1 every two weeks throughout my training.
I’m pretty consistent with using a foam roller and a lacrosse ball after running, but those massages truly made a difference in my training, as I could feel my running being a lot easier, my stride longer and less stiff, and even my breathing stronger after a session targeted around my rib cage and upper body. Brice also started getting deep tissue massages from another therapist, and he confirmed that they made a huge difference in his training recovery.
I tried to do a bit of gym work as well – weighted squats and lunges, and other strengthening exercises, but didn’t manage to make it as consistent as I wished. I only found time to hit the gym about once a week. Finally, I  managed to attend a hot yoga class once a week as well. I found hot yoga to be a bit more effective than regular, in keeping my muscles flexible and getting rid of stiffness or DOMS after running.

Even though I was pretty cautious with my volume increase and how much I pushed my body, I did end up with some annoying pains in my ankles or feet 2 or 3 times during my training. Every time, I just stayed off running for a couple of days, but made sure to stretch and roll, especially in those areas that might be the cause of the pain – I’ve noticed that knee pain is often caused by thigh or hips tightness and ankle/foot pains, by trigger points in the calves. Whether those were premises to injuries, or just muscle fatigue, the short time off and stretching seemed to work every time.

The Squamish 50k is a pretty runable race when it comes to terrain, but it features about 2500m of ascent and 2750m of descent. Probably one of the most effective part of my training was all the climbing I did – and most time for fun. I mentioned that I regularly hiked up the 800m of elevation of the BCMC trail, but also, Brice and I spent most week-ends in the spring and summer hiking up mountains. We didn’t always run, but we definitely built-up our uphill muscles, which turned out to be invaluable for the three major climbs of the Squamish course.

One thing that we’re incredibly fortunate to have, is this amazing playground just at our doorstep. Most of our weekend outings were not so much about training, but more so about having fun and exploring our backyard. Some of the most memorable hikes we did:

• A 25k run up and down a portion of the Skyline trail in Manning Park.

• A 26k hike/run up to Coliseum Mountain in Lynn Valley

• A 25k hike to Alouette Mountain in Golden Ears Park.

• A 23k hike along the Sea to Summit and Al Habrich trails in Squamish

• A 14k hike to Iceberg Lake in Whistler.

We’re also lucky to have an incredible trail running community around us, with friends constantly reaching out to each other to go on running adventures. Such adventures included:
• a 29k “shuffle” on the Sunshine Coast trail – a week-end of running on new trails, camping in the rain and Brice showing off his shelter and fire-making skills to the 7 women who formed our group.

The above photos are actually not from the Sunshine coast week-end, but from a hike/run to Petgill Lake on a different occasion, but with most of the same crew…

• A 25k run, followed by a 16k hike the next day, part of a group week-end in Manning Park where the fun-runs were only matched by all the 90’s movies we watched on old VHS tapes at the cabin.

Above: Climbing and running down the Skyline trail starting from Lightening lake  Below: a windy hike along the Heather/Three Brothers trail (July 1st long week-end)



• A 33k group run/hike through the intimidating Haynes Valley boulder field, up Grouse Mountain and down old Mountain Highway – turns out, the most challenging part was running the last 10k of downhill on boring forest road and tired legs.

• A slightly improvised 18k group trek to Elsay lake near Mount Seymour. For once, the trail started with 7km of technical down which we had to climb on the way back. Thankfully it was all made easy by good company and a refreshing mid-way jump in the aforementioned lake.

Another important aspect of training – for me anyways, was knowing the course. I had run the last 23k of it 2 years earlier. The 23k race follows the same course as the 50k, except for one climb, Legacy, which it by-passes. Brice was not aware of that fact when he took me for a training run before the race 2 years ago, and I remember just wanting to cry the whole way up – but still managing to get there. 2 years later, I knew I was much stronger, so even after running the first half of the course, I figured that one way or another, climbing Legacy would be easier than that very first time. Similarly, I wasn’t too worried about the second half – I would be tired but at least I knew the course and was mentally prepared for how long that last climb to Mount Phlegm would likely feel.

I was however not familiar at all with the first half of the course. Two weeks before the race, Brice thought it would be good to go run up Galactic – the main climb of the first half, just so that I knew what to expect. We started at the Four Lake loop trail head and ran the first 9k of the course until the start of Galactic. We power-hiked up Galactic at a steady pace, but without pushing too hard. As we were going up, I took note of some “landmarks” – the first opening through the trees offering a viewpoint to the town below, a small collapsed portion of the trail on a narrower section, and finally the bridge over the creek – not quite the very top but less than 5 minutes from it. I’m really glad that I was able to familiarize myself with the trail, as I found it helped me knowing how far I was and what was yet to come.

Getting slightly lost on Seymour Mountain during a run, and finding possibly the least runnable trail on the mountain.

I’m a planner, I like to be prepared, and to know what’s ahead – especially if it’s an intimidating physical challenge and I’m unsure of my ability to get through it. Mental preparation was definitely key in training for this race. A great tip that Brice gave me, was to make a list of smaller goals to focus on through the race, just to be able to cross them off when you get there – get to the top of Galactic, get to Quest, get to the top of Legacy, etc…

 

Race Day

I was pretty nervous in the last couple of days leading up to the race. Brice was running the 50miler on the Saturday, so I was on the course all day cheering him – but still making sure to eat properly and hydrate ahead of the next day. Our friends Megs and Drew were his officially designated “crew”, so I enjoyed just hanging out at the aid stations and letting them take care of him when he came through.
That night I was feeling even more nervous, but I focused on getting my pack and drop bag ready, and not thinking too much about the next day. Brice had found a comfortable Airbnb apartment in downtown Squamish, and we shared it with our four friends and crew. It was nice to have people around that night to distract me from my nerves.

Eating at 5am (or earlier) in the morning is often a challenge, but I managed to ingest an omelet and some avocado. I was reconsidering this whole thing and even telling myself “ I don’t want to go” but then I looked over at Brice, who had ran 50 miles the day before, and was getting ready to go for round 2, and that thought made me stopped my inner whining right there and then.
And then a funny thing happened when I put my shoes on. Something sort of clicked and all of a sudden I felt ready.

I started really conservative as we left the start line at Alice lake and crossed the road to the Four Lake loop trail. I decided to adopt the same approach as I had during the Sunshine Coast shuffle – slow in the first half, then push a bit more in the second if I still felt good. The first 9 km went by pretty fast, and I ran through Corners aid station without stopping. I locked into a pretty steady pace on Galactic, sticking behind another woman for the first portion then passing her later when she started to slow down. I actually passed a number of people in the upper section, who had rushed their way up only to run out of steam before reaching the top.


I was really pleased when I reached the bridge as I knew the climbing was pretty much over. One goal to check off my race list. The downhill after that point started off quite technical, then followed by flowy, rolling trail, really fun to run.
For some reason, I got the 50miler and 50k course mixed up as I thought we would be running trough Corners again, but then realized that it wasn’t the case when I reached the second aid station, at the junction of Fred and Word of Mouth trails. It was actually a nice boost to realize I was further along than I thought. The trail continued mainly downward and eventually I reached a forest road crossing, and I could hear cheering nearby. I had already made it to Quest, the 3rd aid station, and the halfway point.

Quest is the biggest aid station on the course. Located on the steps of Quest university, in the Garibaldi Highlands, it faces the mountains and offers a great vantage point to see runners come in. The trail ends at the bottom of a grassy slope, where spectators sit to watch runners make their way up 20 or 25 steps before reaching the volunteer station.
In the last 3 years that I attended the race, as a crew and a spectator, I had seen and encouraged dozens of runners coming through. Most managed to run up the steps, but not all of them did. Brice always said that no matter how tired you felt and how steep it was, you should always run to the aid station – a slightly over-confident statement if you asked me, but one that I kept in mind as I approached the dreaded stairs.

Guys, that feeling of coming out of the trees and reaching the bottom of Quest! Of hearing the spectators cheer, and knowing that I had made it to the halfway point and I was feeling great, with no pain in my body or dent in my spirit. Running up those stairs was probably one of the most exhilarating portion of the race. I heard a couple of people cheer my name but couldn’t quite make out who – likely my friend and “crew captain” Wiebke, who waited for me at the top, with my food supplies already laid out for me to grab.

There’s something a little surreal about being crewed on an ultra. About running on a trail mostly alone for a couple of hours (or more), and then being welcomed by a group of people whose main focus at that point is to take care of you. Within seconds my pack was off my back and being refilled with water and fruit bars, I had a fork in one hand and a container of avocado and mango in the other, and 5 people around me ready to fulfill any of my immediate requests. Our friend Drew had just gone on a coffee run for the group, and when I saw the tray in his hand, I proceeded to claim one of the iced-coffee as my own – and they let me. As I was chomping down avocado bits, I mentioned I should probably put something on my toe as it was starting to rub against my shoe, potentially leading to painful blister. Soon my friend Pargol was taking off my dirty shoe and sock and applying moleskin on the area, without even flinching. That’s trail running for you. People taking on a challenge, more often than not for admittedly selfish reasons, while receiving some of the most self-less support from the people around them. But the best part is we all take turns being supporter and supportees. And none of us are phased by the other’s dirty socks.

I probably could have spent a bit less time at Quest, but I was stoked and excited to see my friends, and to be experiencing the aid station vibe as a runner. Eventually, I said thank you to everyone and took off for the second part of the race, ready to tackle the next challenging bit, the Legacy climb.

The day before, our friend Julie had run the 50mile race (she, like Brice, ran both the 50miler and 50k that week-end!). At the finish line I overheard her say that she had taken some ibuprofen around km 50, and it made a huge difference, she thought, in her performance in the last 30k. Thinking back at how pain had been a major hindrance in my first 50k, more so than fatigue or moral, I figured I would do the same, and popped an ibuprofen cap as I climbed Legacy.

Still riding the high from going through Quest, I felt pretty strong going up Legacy, running most of the way, and power hiking the steeper bits.
Amongst all of Gary Robbins’ dedicated volunteers, one of them definitely stands out. Betty is a bit older than most, probably somewhere in her late fifties or early 60s. She doesn’t run much, but she hikes, and on any given Coast Mountain Races, she can be found standing as course-marshall at one of the higher points of the course. Sure enough, after about 40 min of climbing, I turned a corner and there was Betty – ‘If you’re here, that means I’m at the top!” I excitedly said to her as I ran in the direction she pointed, down the Angry Midget trail.

The only time I experienced a bit of a lull in my energy was on the following portion– I had been really good at eating my fruit bars or maple syrup consistently, not to mention the feast of avocado, chocolate smoothie and coffee I ingested at Quest, and so far had managed to keep my energy level constant. As I reached the 35km mark, I was starting to feel a bit fatigued. The trail was very runnable at that point, and although I don’t remember clearly, I’m sure I eventually refuelled because soon I was feeling better and back on a high again. It also helped that I came to a bend and saw our friend Chris, standing a few meters away, taking photos and encouraging runners. “I’m so happy to see you” I shouted at him, and he responded with his British accent “you’re flying Mel!”. Somehow these short and unexpected interactions have a way of giving you an amazing boost. After that I felt really strong and I can’t remember much of that section, other than miraculously recovering from a near face-plant on some flat but rocky terrain.

Eventually I reached the last aid station, Farside, at the 40k mark. Farside is at the top of a hill and around a sharp corner, and the only other AS with crew access. I once again managed to run up the hill and went straight for the food table – I had been craving pickles for the last hour and didn’t feel like eating anything else.
Wiebke and Pargol were there for me once again, but this time I didn’t linger too much once my pack was refilled – I knew what was ahead and I was ready to finish.

 

The last climb of the race doesn’t look like much on the elevation profile, compared to Galactic and Legacy – but in true Gary Robbins fashion, it is a bit of a soul-crusher if you don’t know what you’re in for. You will think that you’ve reached the top about 5 times, before you actually summit Mount of Phlegm. Every time you think you’re there, the trail takes you back down and around a bit, then back up. On fresh legs, most of the way would be runnable – except for maybe a couple of really short but steep sections. But after 45k, those ups and downs can feel like torture. Luckily, I was mentally prepared for it, and I once again remembered some of the landmarks along the way – like how seeing the powerline meant that you are still probably 2-3 false summits away from the real one.

Finally, I got to the rocky platform at the top. I took a beat to take it in. I knew the way from there, 3k of downhill, followed by 3k on the road before reaching the finish line. On the way up Phlegm, I could feel my energy lower a bit, and I thought I should probably take in some calories. But at that point in the race none of my fuelling options appealed to me anymore, and I ignored Brice’s advice to always “eat passed the finish line” – even if you’re only a few Km/s from finishing you should always refuel as though you were further away, to make sure you don’t bonk just before crossing the line.
I’m not sure whether I would have been able to finish faster, even by a couple of minutes, had I forced myself to down one last pack of maple syrup, but at least I never walked, always kept running along the bottom of the climbing walls, through the Smoke Bluffs parking lot, alongside the highway and through the underpass, down the two or three longest street blocks ever and into the park, all the way into Gary Robbins’s arm, for the customary and much welcomed  finish line hug he greets every finisher with.

Going into this race, I had no idea how I would do. My first 50k was over a year earlier, and although I felt more prepared and stronger now, I knew the course was also harder – plus you can’t really compare one race with another, as differences in terrain and climate can make a 7 hour race feel fast or slow just the same. I hadn’t set any goals, or at least not very high ones, and I figured I would be happy if I came in around 8 hours (but realIy I would be happy if I finished at all!).
After hugging Gary then my friend Wiebke who had been such great training partner and crew, I turned around to see the clock, and realized I had crushed my goal. Official time read 7:02:48. Best part was – I didn’t even hurt anywhere.

Brice came through the finish line about 1 hour later, looking all smiles after finishing his second 50/50 and getting the green hat. 

Overall, I was really happy with my race. I hadn’t set a very ambitious goal for time –  most of all I wanted to enjoy the day and finish pain-free, both of which I did.

Looking back, I think the things that made my training successful:
• Not overthinking a plan. Doing what I could and not worry too much whether that was enough. Keeping the motivation to do enough, but be ok with taking a day off.
• Keeping training fun – I ran mostly with Brice and/or friends, so it never felt like training, and always more like a social outing. I kept the strict “training” for the week and saved the week-end for adventures that happened to be both fun and added mileage/time on feet.
• Recovery – I gave my body time to recover (I actually rarely ran two days in the row). Most of all, the massages made a huge difference in releasing tension that could otherwise have built up and triggered injuries. They were also a great motivation boost as my body felt a lot more fluid and running was easier in the days after a massage.

Things that were key on race day:

Being supported by awesome friends – who know too well what goes on in an ultra, and can take care of you better than you could take care of yourself.
Being nervous and excited and grateful for every step that I took.

Weather (that one was outside of my control, but the temperature ended up very comfortable, as opposed to the heat experienced in other years, and I’m sure it made a big difference in my performance).

Things I kept my mind busy with while running for 7 hours:
• Doing math to calculate how long to reach the next aid station/the halfway point/the finish. I seem to always go about those calculations in the most convoluted way, but in the end it entertains me probably more than if I knew how to do math correctly (or just looked at my watch).
• Thinking about what I’m going to eat at the next aid station – thankfully I didn’t have any stomach or digestive issue, and craved a variety of foods throughout the race. I had prepared a dropbag for Quest, which included some chopped up avocado and mango – a favorite combo of mine, as well as a chocolate smoothie with almond butter and coconut oil – another easy to absorb/high calorie option to fill my stomach up with something else than sugar at the halfway point. Before arriving at each station, I tried to decide what I really wanted once I got there.
• Mentally pep-talking myself for most of the way. I would tell myself “you’re doing good, keep going like that, no need to rush, and when I felt a drop in energy, I would keep up the encouragement: “ it’s ok, it will get easier soon, I just need to eat”. Basically kept my mind occupied with being my own internal cheerleader.
• Honestly, both at the Gorge and at Squamish, I feel like time flew by. 7 hours might seem like a long time, but between having to pay attention to where I put my feet, focusing on keeping a steady pace on the uphills, and just plain enjoying the run, it all went by like a dream.

So that’s my Squamish recap – in the biggest nutshell ever. What a fun race to be a part of, especially after being a spectator so many times. I would probably do it again, just to see if I can do even better. After a successful 2nd participation, shaving a total of 3 hours off his first time, Brice says he won’t do the 50/50 again…but really, I give it a couple of years. That hat looks pretty sweet in yellow 😛

We had another race planned in November of 2018, the North Face 50k in San Francisco. Unfortunately the race got canceled due to wild fires in the area. Next up on the list for 2019: Knee Knacker!

 

Running the Iceline Trail in Yoho National Park

On day 4 of our Rockies road trip, we had decided to run the Iceline trail, one of the most scenic hikes in Yoho National Park. Our plan was to cover roughly 25km in a loop, starting in the forest along the river, then climbing up to the alpine to the Stanley Mitchell Hut, and finally taking the Iceline trail across the alpine and down back to the start of our loop.

We started at the base of the Takakkaw Falls, at the end of Yoho Valley Road, in a balmy -2 degres almost-fall morning. We had spent the night before at the Kicking Horse campground, located right off the highway, conveniently near the start of the road.


We first ran along the Laughing Falls trail, following the river passed a few waterfalls. We took a wrong turn and ended up further up the trail than planed, but made our way back on the Twin Falls trail. On the way we stumbled upon the Twin Falls Chalet, built in the early 1900’s by the Canadian Pacific Railway to serve as a Tea House, and later turned into a backcountry lodge. The Chalet has been operated by the same owner since the 1960’s, Fran Drummond, who still today in her eighties spends the summer season hosting guests wanting to enjoy a few days in the beautiful surroundings of the park and enjoying views of the Twin Falls from their room.

Once we were back on track we continued up Little Yoho Valley Trail to the Stanley Mitchell Hut. We crossed a boulder field for a while, then continued up the packed trail. The climb wasn’t very arduous, and with a full stomach we probably could have run it, but we were running low on fuel, and dragging our feet. Finally we reached the hut, which is actually really cozy and well stocked, with fireplace, kitchen and  sleeping quarters on the top level.

After lunch, we headed back out to continue towards the top of the Iceline trail. After a number of switchbacks, we arrived above the tree line and started running through the moon-like expense of dirt and rock, only broken up every so often by small patches of water.

We passed a few people hiking the opposite way, which seems to be the most popular way to approach the trail as a day hike. Brice and I both agreed that we preferred doing the loop in the direction we did it that day – starting with a more gradual incline through the forest and along the river, and coming down on the steep switchbacks that rapidly took us back to the parking lot.

Last one down buys the hot cocoa!

We were pretty happy about the hot shower available at the campground after a day of running, and were even able to enjoy a campfire as the ban was just lifted that night, after some rain fall had made the forest humid and less likely to catch on fire.

Hiking to Miller Lake in Mount Revelstoke National Park

Last September, Brice and I took a short road trip to the Canadian Rockies. Brice had driven through on a couple of occasions, but I had never been East of the Okanagan (on the road anyways). A week break between two jobs turned out to be the perfect occasion to load the car with our camping gear and head to the Rocky Mountains.

Despite our best efforts, we rarely manage to get up and going early – except if we’ve made a commitment to meet with other people. On the first day of our trip, we hit the road around 9am, a pretty late start by adventurer’s standards, but we’ve long ago decided that rather than worry about getting an early start and rushing through the door, we would take the time we needed – the road and everything on it would still be there.

We drove for almost 8 hours on that first day and reached Mount Revelstoke National Park in the late afternoon. We still had a few hours of daylight, enough to go for a 14k return run up to Miller lake.

It was September 13, and already the air was pretty crisp at sunset, but still comfortable enough to run in shorts and t-shirt.

We got to the lake just in time to see the last rays of sunshine hit the base of the mountains around it, and ran back down as dusk settled.

It was dark when we got back to the car, but we were pretty happy to have been able to fit a good shake out run after spending 8 hours in the car. 

We had diner in Revelstoke then decided to drive and extra hour east, to camp in Glacier National Park.

 

Costa Rica Adventure – Wrapping Up the Run Like a Girl Retreat in Playa Dominical

On day 5 of the retreat, we had our last yoga class, then after breakfast it was time to say goodbye to Chakra. As I walked down the path from the platform to the road, my stomach was all knotted. I could have stayed there a bit longer, it felt like I was being pulled from the place too soon, I wasn’t quite ready to go back to civilization yet and wanted more of the serene, carefree and supportive energy that the space and the people in it provided.

We hiked down the 5km of road, back to the village.

As part of their conservation project in the area, Run Like a Girl also provides community service. This time we participated in re-painting a small building affiliated to the school. It may sound weird but I actually loved doing that. It got me thinking about looking up retreats that offer community project involvement as well as outdoor activities. I’m sure those are out there.

We then got back on the bus, ready to head to the beach! We drove to Playa Dominical, a very small beach town on the west coast of Costa Rica, right on the mouth of Rio Baru and the Pacific ocean. This was a great way to ease back into a slightly more populated area, after spending 5 days in a secluded lodge. Far from being a tourist hub, it was a charming little one-street town. Shop sand restaurants lined the main unpaved road, while craft and souvenir vendors spread along the ocean front, in the shade of the palm trees.

After settling into our hotel rooms, we had a tasty lunch at Phat Noodle, a Thai restaurant just at the entrance of town. Then the afternoon was free so Brice and I went for a stroll on the beach. We walked some distance south until we reached a rocky area, populated by hundreds of tiny little crabs.
The sky was pretty cloudy at the point and we got caught in a legit downpour as we walked back.

For dinner we all went to Tortilla Flats, a restaurant on the beach. The food was  underwhelming at best – I thought, but the cocktails were delicious, probably the best pina colada I’d had in a long time. We were sitting near Heather and Melissa, the two sisters from Utah, and after diner, while most of the group had already gone back to their room, the four of us decided to keep the party going and went on the search for a place to potentially do some dancing.

Well, there wasn’t much going on in Playa Dominical at 10pm on a Wednesday (at least I think it was Wednesday, my sense of date and time was pretty fuzzy at that point), but after walking down the main street back towards the town entrance, we ended up in what seemed to be THE establishment in town that locals went to. As far as locals, there were about 5-6 men siting at the bar, and our slightly inebriated entrance didn’t go un-noticed. Aside from that, the rest of the place was empty, so we sat down in a booth further past the bar, but soon relocated to the top of the small wooden stage behind us and proceeded to start dancing. Not sure if the other patrons found us funny or annoying, but soon after, the music stopped. Because we were on a wooden stage, we found ourselves stomping, and soon we were singing “we will rock you” to our own beat (cause, obviously)…We must have been more entertaining than annoying because a couple of minutes later the bartender put that very song on. More dancing and drinking (and spilling) ensued and one of the men stood of his bar stool and busted out some pretty serious dance moves with Melissa. Meanwhile, our waiter from dinner, Moses, who we had nicknamed Costa-Rican-Lebron-James, made an appearance – apparently Heather had made quite the impression on him, not enough to remember her name correctly as he kept calling her Amber, but enough that he seemed pretty pleased to see her at his local hang-out.

After a while we got tired of dancing. It was hot and muggy and we were all pretty sweaty so the next obvious move at that point was to go jump into the ocean, which we did. With all that, we were in bed at a whooping 12am – might as well call it an all-nighter since our regular bedtime until then had been closer to 8:00pm.

For day two at the beach, Hailey and Eduardo took us to another beach area in the nearby national park of Marino Ballena, just outside the town of Uvita, about 20 minute drive south of Playa Dominical. The park is known for being one of the best area in Costa Rica (and maybe even in the world) to spot humpback whales, especially in the fall when they congregate there to mate. Mother Nature works in mysterious ways as the 13km long beach presents a very large rock and sand formation jutting out into the ocean, and which, viewed from the sky, looks surprisingly similar to a whale’s tail. This is the result of conflicting currents which deposit sand over the rocky formations, creating this unusual, yet oddly-appropriate shape that can be fully seen at low-tide.

Our guides had planned a couple of activities for us while on the beach. Eduardo set up a couple of slack lines between palm trees. While half of the group was testing out their core strength and balancing skills, the other half gathered a few hundred feet away at the mouth of a small river for some stand-up paddle-boarding. We paddled up the narrow estuary, lined by thick mangrove trees. Although very different from our kayaking experience in Mexico, I couldn’t help but be reminded of it, floating once again on calm waters surrounded by this exotic vegetation.



After all the beach fun, we walked back into the small town for lunch, then headed back to Playa Dominical for another free afternoon.

Once we were done browsing the souvenir stands by the ocean, Brice and I, along with Melissa and Heather headed to the hotel pool. At first the water was looking somewhat questionable. A hotel employee was in fact in the process of cleaning it. When asked if the water was safe to swim in, to which he replied yes, so we went in for a while. It was our last night as a group as some people were flying off the next day. Since there was a 2-hour drive to get back to San Jose, some of the ladies had to leave really early the next morning – as in 3am, in the case of Heather and Melissa. Because of that we briefly entertained the idea of repeating the partying from the night before and not go to bed at all (for them anyways) but at 10pm, as we were paying our dinner bill, it became pretty evident that it wasn’t gonna happen. We were all fading already and besides, you can’t force these things, they had to happen organically.

So we walked back to our rooms and said goodbye. I was sad to see these two go as we had definitely bonded over the course of the retreat, not so much over what we had in common, as our background were pretty different (two sisters from a Mormon background, one of whom had never been outside of the United States until now, and a French couple relocated from Paris to Anglo-Canada) but rather, over our enjoyment at finding out about each other’s story and where we came from. Plus they had wicked-fun personalities and incredibly generous, embracing demeanours. In the beginning I was even surprised that little old me would make any sort of impression on these two (not surprised about Brice though, who always knows how to make a strong first impression :P). In any case, somehow by the end of it we were friends and hoping for opportunities to hang out again before too long – turns out Utah has been on my list of places to explore so we might try to put it in the cards for 2017.

Along with a smaller group, we had opted to stay an extra day in Costa Rica before we flew off to our next destination. On our last morning in Playa Dominical, we got up early and went for a sunrise walk on the beach.

After breakfast, Hailey suggested we go hike the Nauyaca Waterfalls trail. The trail is about 4km one way, if you start from the parking lot. We took a taxi there and instead of having him drive us down the dirt road to the parking lot, we got off at the intersection and started from the main road, adding another 2km to our hike. The trail was pretty easy, but again because of the recent rain, it was really muddy. There were two impressive waterfalls at the end, the first one 45 meters high and free-falling, and the other one twenty meters high with a tiered fall, forming a pool at the bottom.
You’d think after our 11-waterfalls hike on day 2 of the retreat we would be a bit jaded, but these two were definitely a impressive sight and worth the hike.

On the way back we stopped at a small restaurant for a bathroom break, and discovered just behind it a tree full of capucine monkeys and toucans. In true RLAG Retreat fashion, we then had to hike back up the steep 2km dirt road from the parking lot to the main road, where we had asked our taxi driver to come get us at 1pm. Like Jackie said, it’s good to finish a hike with a good challenging bit that makes you sweat. And sweating we did, it was hot and muggy and a great way to end this week of challenging adventures.

We drove back to the village and had a delicious lunch at Coco Mongo, a vegetarian café near the entrance of town. The bus came to pick us up a little after 5pm, so we got a last glimpse at the Costa Rican sunset before saying good bye to Dominical.

Back in San Jose, we stayed at the Mango Hotel near the airport. The room was nothing special, but at $90 a night, with breakfast and airport shuttle included, it was probably one of the cheapest option in the airport area. The next day, we said goodbye to Costa Rica, and flew off to our next adventure: the Caraterra Austral and Patagonia.

Trail Running and Yoga Retreat in Costa Rica with Run Like a Girl – Part 3

This was the “big” day of the retreat. We skipped yoga in the morning as we needed to get going at 5:30am. The program of the day was a 30km return hike up mount Ena, with some 2200 meters elevation gain. The trail started off a couple of kilometers down the main road, across a bridge off to the left. A sign indicating “km 0” marked the beginning.

 

Similar to our first hike, muddy doesn’t even begin to describe the state of the trail. With the effort required to pull our feet out of ankle-deep mud, hoping not to leave a shoe behind, the way in and up felt like double the work out.

Fortunately, the hike offered really beautiful vistas to distract us from the hurdle. We started on single track through the forest, then across wide cow pastures and into the forest again, later followed at higher elevation, by lower thick shrubs, and eventually sparse and dry vegetation that had us feel for a brief moment that we might have been transported to the African Savannah.



After about 5 hours we reached the top and were rewarded by an incredible 360 view of the mountains around us, with even a glimpse of the ocean far in the distance. Even Hailey and Eduardo were impressed by how exceptionally clear the sky was, a rare thing as the clouds would have usually rolled in by that time of day.





It was fairly windy at the top so after enjoying our lunch and taking the appropriate photos, we headed back down. A few people at the front started running, Brice included, while I preferred to power hike/jog along with a few others.

Eventually we reached our water refueling point by a little bridge. Lindsay and I sped up our pace, and we found ourselves some distance from the other girls behind us, but not quite able to catch up with the front group. The way down took a while of course, and being separated from the rest of the group, we had to pay more attention to our surroundings, to make sure we were on the right tracks.

It’s funny how the same trail can look so different on the way out, especially when you haven’t paid attention on the way in and you now find yourself thinking “I don’t remember this big broken tree” or “I’m pretty sure we should have passed a big open clearing by now”. We had a few moments of hesitation when finding ourselves at a fork in the trail, but every time, the deep Salomon Speedcross tracks in the mud confirmed which way to go ( I would not normally recommend this method of finding your way back to a trail head, but in this instance, following the fresh footsteps of the runners just ahead of us worked like a charm) .

On the way down Lindsay and I found ourselves talking a lot about sewing and knitting. Turns out she loves that stuff too so there was much geeking out about sewing patterns and projects and how there wasn’t enough time in the day to do it all. I was definitely thankful for the distraction during the long way down.

Eventually we arrived back at the wide open cow pastures that we had crossed on the way up. It felt quite different now though. Engulfed in fog, the grey stumps felt more prominent than they were earlier in the bright sunshine and all of a sudden it was like we were in Ireland or Scotland.


A couple of km later we reached the trail head and the “0” marker. But now that the downhill was over, we still had to climb back up the road to the lodge. We were a bit further down than on the first day of hiking, probably about a kilometre and a half. But in the same fashion as on the first day, that steep mile felt like the longest one of the day. What’s more, shortly after starting on the road, we came to a junction, with one road curving out to the left and the other continuing straight. Neither of us remembered a junction, so we were a bit confused for a minute, but we figured we could hear the river from the lodge, and the straight road followed the river whereas the one branching off to the left didn’t. So straight up we went. 

Eventually, we reached the lodge and were welcomed by a cheerful group, encouraging us from the main platform. I was pretty happy to be done, and somehow found the energy to run up the steep trail to the platform, thus concluding my longest hike to date in 9hours and 15 minutes. I even went back down to the river to dip my sore legs and knees into the water.

The front group had arrived about 20 minutes earlier (Brice was already all showered up), but there were still quite a few women behind us along with Eduardo and Felipe. They trickled in over the next hour and a half. We could see each girl coming up the road so each time we welcomed them with cheering and clapping and hugs as they arrived up to the platform, a big smile on their face and sighing with relief to be done.

The last woman to arrive, Kristen, was accompanied by Eduardo, and she later told us that upon arriving at the “0km” marker she had told him she wanted to climb the last mile in less then 20 minutes. So he made sure to give her the proper encouragement all the away and as they arrived near the lodge, we saw her pass her poles to him and proceed to jog the last few 100 meters. We all started shouting encouragements and clap for her until she made it to the top, and all of us could sense the emotion and the excitement she must have felt, of finishing something she had previously doubted she could accomplish.

There were lots of hugging and barely a dry eye around and although I’m not usually one to give into public displays of emotions, I started tearing up as well. It was just such an incredible feeling, to be part of this moment with all these other women that I didn’t know a few days earlier, after accomplishing something that I would not have believed myself capable of a couple of years ago and for it to feel so organic and natural. At the risk of sounding cheesy, I genuinely felt like at that exact moment, there was no other place that I was more meant to be.


That night we skipped yoga, everybody was probably pretty happy to just give their body a rest, and after dinner we gathered once again around the fire for one last evening at the lodge.

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