Trail Running and Yoga Retreat in Costa Rica with Run Like a Girl – Part 3

This was the “big” day of the retreat. We skipped yoga in the morning as we needed to get going at 5:30am. The program of the day was a 30km return hike up mount Ena, with some 2200 meters elevation gain. The trail started off a couple of kilometers down the main road, across a bridge off to the left. A sign indicating “km 0” marked the beginning.

 

Similar to our first hike, muddy doesn’t even begin to describe the state of the trail. With the effort required to pull our feet out of ankle-deep mud, hoping not to leave a shoe behind, the way in and up felt like double the work out.

Fortunately, the hike offered really beautiful vistas to distract us from the hurdle. We started on single track through the forest, then across wide cow pastures and into the forest again, later followed at higher elevation, by lower thick shrubs, and eventually sparse and dry vegetation that had us feel for a brief moment that we might have been transported to the African Savannah.



After about 5 hours we reached the top and were rewarded by an incredible 360 view of the mountains around us, with even a glimpse of the ocean far in the distance. Even Hailey and Eduardo were impressed by how exceptionally clear the sky was, a rare thing as the clouds would have usually rolled in by that time of day.





It was fairly windy at the top so after enjoying our lunch and taking the appropriate photos, we headed back down. A few people at the front started running, Brice included, while I preferred to power hike/jog along with a few others.

Eventually we reached our water refueling point by a little bridge. Lindsay and I sped up our pace, and we found ourselves some distance from the other girls behind us, but not quite able to catch up with the front group. The way down took a while of course, and being separated from the rest of the group, we had to pay more attention to our surroundings, to make sure we were on the right tracks.

It’s funny how the same trail can look so different on the way out, especially when you haven’t paid attention on the way in and you now find yourself thinking “I don’t remember this big broken tree” or “I’m pretty sure we should have passed a big open clearing by now”. We had a few moments of hesitation when finding ourselves at a fork in the trail, but every time, the deep Salomon Speedcross tracks in the mud confirmed which way to go ( I would not normally recommend this method of finding your way back to a trail head, but in this instance, following the fresh footsteps of the runners just ahead of us worked like a charm) .

On the way down Lindsay and I found ourselves talking a lot about sewing and knitting. Turns out she loves that stuff too so there was much geeking out about sewing patterns and projects and how there wasn’t enough time in the day to do it all. I was definitely thankful for the distraction during the long way down.

Eventually we arrived back at the wide open cow pastures that we had crossed on the way up. It felt quite different now though. Engulfed in fog, the grey stumps felt more prominent than they were earlier in the bright sunshine and all of a sudden it was like we were in Ireland or Scotland.


A couple of km later we reached the trail head and the “0” marker. But now that the downhill was over, we still had to climb back up the road to the lodge. We were a bit further down than on the first day of hiking, probably about a kilometre and a half. But in the same fashion as on the first day, that steep mile felt like the longest one of the day. What’s more, shortly after starting on the road, we came to a junction, with one road curving out to the left and the other continuing straight. Neither of us remembered a junction, so we were a bit confused for a minute, but we figured we could hear the river from the lodge, and the straight road followed the river whereas the one branching off to the left didn’t. So straight up we went. 

Eventually, we reached the lodge and were welcomed by a cheerful group, encouraging us from the main platform. I was pretty happy to be done, and somehow found the energy to run up the steep trail to the platform, thus concluding my longest hike to date in 9hours and 15 minutes. I even went back down to the river to dip my sore legs and knees into the water.

The front group had arrived about 20 minutes earlier (Brice was already all showered up), but there were still quite a few women behind us along with Eduardo and Felipe. They trickled in over the next hour and a half. We could see each girl coming up the road so each time we welcomed them with cheering and clapping and hugs as they arrived up to the platform, a big smile on their face and sighing with relief to be done.

The last woman to arrive, Kristen, was accompanied by Eduardo, and she later told us that upon arriving at the “0km” marker she had told him she wanted to climb the last mile in less then 20 minutes. So he made sure to give her the proper encouragement all the away and as they arrived near the lodge, we saw her pass her poles to him and proceed to jog the last few 100 meters. We all started shouting encouragements and clap for her until she made it to the top, and all of us could sense the emotion and the excitement she must have felt, of finishing something she had previously doubted she could accomplish.

There were lots of hugging and barely a dry eye around and although I’m not usually one to give into public displays of emotions, I started tearing up as well. It was just such an incredible feeling, to be part of this moment with all these other women that I didn’t know a few days earlier, after accomplishing something that I would not have believed myself capable of a couple of years ago and for it to feel so organic and natural. At the risk of sounding cheesy, I genuinely felt like at that exact moment, there was no other place that I was more meant to be.


That night we skipped yoga, everybody was probably pretty happy to just give their body a rest, and after dinner we gathered once again around the fire for one last evening at the lodge.

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Trail Running and Yoga Retreat in Costa Rica with Run Like a Girl – Part 2

The third day of the retreat had an array of activities in store for us. We took a break from the trail wandering and stayed close to the lodge all day – we were pacing ourselves before the following day’s adventure, a 30km round-trip hike up to the mount Ena summit.


Yoga practice ended with an introduction to Maria Fernanda’s own line of essential oils, and the benefits that each provided. Then after breakfast we headed to the river – the same spot we had dipped our legs in the day before. Along with essential oils, Maria Fernanda has developed a line of natural products, which she “engineered” herself. By producing them locally (directly in her home studio), she also provides employment for local women. Our outdoor spa treatment consisted in a cleansing clay mask, that we washed off with fresh river water. Then we applied Maria’s facial toner followed by a moisturizing oil. It was quite the treat, a little bit of TLC before continuing with the rest of our outdoor adventures.


At that point, our group was split in two. Half of us headed a few meters further down the river, for some cliff rappelling, while the other half disappeared into the forest to go climb a 35-foot tree.


We started the rappelling with a couple of “baby” cliffs, in order for all of us to get comfortable with backing up over an edge and dropping ourselves down (one step at a time) to the bottom. After this “mise-en-jambe”, we rappelled down along the side of a waterfall, landing into ankle-deep water. Our two guides, Eduardo and Felipe, were excellent at explaining all the steps and staying close by as we were coming down, making us feel safe at all times.

Once we were done with that part of the repelling (which was only a warm-up for what was to come next), we headed to the big tree for the climb. I very much enjoy rock-climbing, even though I don’t get to do it very oftne, so I was really excited, l staring up at this giant, at the opportunity of making my way up there. It was a really cool climb, the intricate branches and knots provided ample hand and foot holds and I made my way up to the top without too much trouble.

But first I should mention that when I got to the tree, I found Brice hanging from a separate rope, some 30 feet above the ground, taking photos of each climber from above – and providing encouragement whenever they would get to a tough spot or thought they couldn’t make it any further. As usual he had managed to find the most optimal spot for the best photos: the highest vantage point.

 

Brice started with the tree climbing first, clearly he hadn’t had the repelling course yet ;P

I wish I could have stayed up there a while, sitting on a branch and looking out at the valley around us…but that wouldn’t have been fair to the other women below, waiting for their turn to climb 😛

Once we were all done climbing, we headed back to the waterfall to regroup with the other half of the gang. Then it was time for the plat-de-resistance, the main challenge of the day, which both previous activities had – hopefully – prepared us for: repelling down the waterfall. While the rest of the day had not presented a huge challenge for me personally, this part made my heart beat race. And I didn’t even actually go down.


First we all reconvened at the bottom of the waterfall, so we could watch each other from below. Eduardo, all geared up, stood at the top of the fall and proceeded to demonstrate the process. The first part wasn’t very different from what we had done earlier – slowly step back over the edge of the cliff and let the rope slide in your hand, inches at a time, to lower yourself down. Eduardo or Felipe would descend alongside us, holding the rope below us for safety. The main difference up until that point was that we were now stepping into, and partially under, a vertical wall of water. When we reached the halfway point however, then came the catch – or in this case, the release.

At that point we had two options: jump off backwards, or slide along the cliff, into the pool below. Either way we had to slip off the rope and dive into the water….When Eduardo first demonstrated (I think he showed us how to slide off), my heart skipped a beat. It might not have been that high or that fast, but I saw him suddenly disappear into the water and held my breath until he resurfaced, a couple of seconds later. And I thought “how the hell is any one of us going to do THAT?”.

But some of the other girls were already lining up to go. Jackie went first, and after Felipe gave her all the instructions, it seemed she didn’t even think twice before pushing herself off the wall and into the water. She was followed by a few others, and with each of them I watched in admiration.

That’s also when I decided to pass. I wasn’t so much worried about the repelling, and after watching a few of my retreat-mates go down without a hitch, I probably could have mustered the nerve to go up there and do the same (or so I tell myself). But the fog had already rolled in, as it commonly did in the afternoon, meaning the sun was gone. And the water was cold. As in mountain river cold. And if you know me, you’ll know that when water is cold, I just can’t deal.

So instead I watched and it was awesome to see how each woman approached the challenge, and how no matter how much fear and apprehension they had at the top, they had to let it all go, literally, to reach the bottom. And then to see each of them emerge from the pool, with both a completely stunned look and a huge smile on their face, that was incredible.

Jodie had been one of the last one of us to climb the tree, and just couldn’t make it to the top. Frightened by height and unfamiliar with climbing she had gotten stuck just a few meters off the ground and came down quite disappointed. The waterfall repelling was totally a redeeming act for her, and I was so impressed at how she went for it, head on, as if she had done this many times before. To watch someone come back from a personal deception by crushing the very next challenge was truly inspiring…although not inspiring enough to make me want to do it…did I mention how cold the water was? Ok, moving on…

Meanwhile, Brice had of course made his way up to the top of the fall, and had gotten himself harnessed up and hooked to the side of the cliff, once again looking for the best spot in the house to document every one’s accomplishment.

It took a bit longer than planned for the 10 or 12 women who participated in the waterfall repel to all go. It was almost 4pm by the time we were done, so when we returned to the lodge, we pretty much ate (lunch), had our yoga practice, then ate again (dinner). With all the adrenaline rushes of the day, none of us seemed to mind the back to back meals so much.

After dinner, Eduardo and Felipe built a big fire outside, and we all gathered around it to recall the events of the day. It went something like this “Dude, I climbed up a tree today!” followed by “And you repelled off a freaking waterfall” and soon after “People, can you believe we’re in Costa Rica right now?”. Yeah we were in Costa Rica, challenging ourselves to new levels, and it was all around pretty awesome…